Pina Bausch

For a second season in a row, Ferragamo‘s Maximilian Davis is inspired with contemporary dance. Pina Bausch was an in-your-face reference for autumn-winter 2025, just looking at the petal strewn runway (a nod to one of her most famous stagings, “Nelken“). Ballerina’s bodysuits from last collection got replaced with thicker jerseys, semi-sheer shifts and airy drapes. Two densely fringed mesh dresses near the end were hung with carnation-like florals. Some of the oversized tailored outerwear (the collection’s standout moments) echoed the masculine garments that Bausch was sometimes photographed wearing. It all seemed right. But in the end, something’s still missing in Maximilian’s vision for the Italian house.

ED’s SELECTION:

Ferragamo Star Leather-trimmed Leopard-print Calf Hair Tote

Ferragamo Gyoia Bow-embellished Patent-leather Pumps

Ferragamo Layered Ribbed Jersey Top

Ferragamo Padded Shell Bomber Jacket

Ferragamo Hug Medium Leather-trimmed Raffia Tote

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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“When people see the collection I want them to have license to interpret it themselves” said Simone Rocha said of her spring-summer 2025 collection, adding: “I’d never be interested in fashion that’s defining a look or defining how someone should feel.” Her latest offering – striking a balance between experimental and wearable – did spark a spectrum of emotions. Just like dance. Michael Clark and Pina Bausch were cited as influences. Bausch’s Nelken (her carnation-strewn piece exploring extreme and traumatic love) had a significant cameo, lending its floral motif to this Rocha collection. Some of the models wore tutus topped by over-sized, languid jackets, with their hands crossed as if they were leaving a ballet rehearsal – or a bad relationship. The collection was also about transparency: sheer organza shirts for boys, barely-there, translucent dresses and coats for the Rocha ballerinas. Performative, but, intimate, multidimensional, yet light: Simone Rocha is finding great pleasure in playing with contrasts.