#TBT: Haider Ackermann’s SS11

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Spring / summer 2011 for men by Haider Ackermann.The designer titled his show “A Carte Blanche Named Opium”, and the elegantly spare book (he called it a “carnet de voyage”) that was distributed before his Spring presentation in Florence during Pitti Uomo Fashion Week promised an appropriately dark, sensual head trip. Men in embellished jackets and  upholstery trousers, women in their languidly draped palazzo pants and layered silk tanks. One of my all-time favourite by Ackermann.

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Men’s: Pastels. Gucci AW14

462391645 That was really elegant collection. To death. Frida Gianini for Gucci created a very simple collection for AW14 using pastel and black colours. Coats. Wool sweaters. Black trousers. Suits. And that’s it. After seeing so much colour during the fashion week, this collection feels a bit sad and too formal. Fashion used to be fun at Gucci…462390197 462391585 462391543 462391653 462391565 GUC_0561.450x675

Men’s: Obsession / Sex. Calvin Klein AW14

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Obsession, Escape and Eternity were the keywords that guided the AW14 menswear collection of Calvin Klein. And this is nothing else than the names of famous CK fragrances for men… Now all the labels try to support their legacy as much as possible, so no wonder that this is a very good step for the New York based house. The collection was based on brown, olive and black colours; it was full of warm jackets, sporty sweatshirts and super cool wool shirts worn with matchy gloves. The collection got few looks I adore, but nothing behind it…

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Men’s: Mid-70’s. Prada AW14

Slide1-kopia 3Located in an underground garage or passage in the centre of Milan, the AW14 Menswear show of Prada just took place. Miuccia Prada as always did a good job. But, she didn’t out-stand herself unfortunately. The collection was combined with women’s Pre-Fall’14 pieces that really supported menswear. The man clothes were too “not” neat- 70’s inspired oversized trousers, unitarian vests, shubby fur coats and horrible colours of brown were present here. But women part was amazing! Bright coloured leather dresses? Totally fine. Sexy femme fatale blouses worn with fur scarves? Indeed. In other words, Miuccia tried something new (well, not literally new but more… forgotten?) in men fashion, but for me it didn’t go well. But for women (the models- Amanda Murphy, Jamie Bochert… gosh!) she created new timeless classics that will need to have place in every woman’s classy wardrobe.
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