Le Labo in Berlin

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The leathery scent of Santal 33 is like a drug. Bitter sweetness of Bergamote 22 is a sensual refreshment. Neroli 36 feels like liquid memoir of an Italian summer. I’m speaking of Le Labo, a brand that’s not just about (already) desirable branding, but powerful fragrances. Heralded as one of the best niche fragrances brands in the world, Le Labo boasts a core selection of unique fragrances and exclusive scents available in nine cities. Their newly opened store in Berlin‘s Mitte district is as delightful as the products available there. Those old tiles on the walls, heavy wooden counters, vintage sofas… honestly, wouldn’t mind staying here for much longer.

Alte Schönhauser Str. 26 / Berlin

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Photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Concierge Coffee in Berlin

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Concierge Coffee, Benjamin Pates’s and Namy Nosratifard’s baby, is there for you to serve the best flat white in entire Kreuzberg, just along the canal. Fresh pastries and house juices are here, too, nicely displayed on the counter (with some quite tongue-in-cheek taxidermy pets in the front). But it isn’t only coffee that attracts Berliners to Concierge, Kreuzberg’s best kept secret. It’s the atmosphere of this low-key spot that makes it so undeniably cool. The coffee bar is hidden away in an old gatekeepers room, while the beverages are served through a small window in the back. Sit with the locals on matching the cups, blue stools, and enjoy the street view!

Paul-Lincke-Ufer 39-40 / Berlin

Photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Cocolo Ramen X-Berg

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Cocolo Ramen X-Berg is said to have the best ramen in Berlin. I guess the huge queues for a seat are the best evidence for that. I ate the Wantan ramen with shrimp wontons and it was the actual 7th wonder happening in my mouth. Ramen often tends to be too fatty, but this one was just perfect for me – light, but with its recognizable essence. Gyoza dumplings are also worth a try. The industrial interior with long, wooden tables is as charming as the outdoors space. Sitting there on a sunny day and observing the diverse street life of Kreuzberg is something I can do everyday! While sipping Cocolo’s home-made, signature lemonade, of course.

Paul-Lincke-Ufer 39-40 / Berlin

Photographs by Edward Kanarecki.

Antwerp’s Finest Houses

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At Dries Van Noten.

Entering Ann Demeulemeester‘s spacious store is like approaching the church alter. The Belgian fashion designer’s dark romance oozes from the lace vests, fragile headpieces and Victorian frocks with absorbing power, while the multi-storey boutique has a sacred charm about it. The white-wall backdrop makes you look at the details of the clothes with great scrutiny, breathless. Ann’s fashion used to be pure poetry with a Flemish twist, and fortunately, Sebastian Meunièr, the current creative director, successfully conveys the Demeulemeester codes in his collections. And with the help of the Antwerp flagship store – which also holds the studio and atelier – Ann Demeulmeester appears to be one of the finest of Belgian fashion.

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Other than Ann Demeulemeester, there’s also Dries Van Noten and A.F. Vandevorst, who make contemporary Belgian fashion so crucial. The building, in which you see the Van Noten boutique, is fully owned by the designer and is gracefully called Het Modepalais (‘fashion palace’). The name might sound quite over-the-top, but the store is far from that term. It’s like Dries’ fashion – refined with an edge. It feels like an apartment that is currently ‘furnished’ with the designer’s mesmerising clothes and accessories from his 100th collection. Fresh bouquets of hydrangeas bring even more chic to this (literally) fashionable townhouse. What’s interesting, Dries Van Noten really is a local treasure of Antwerp. That’s evident from the moment you start observing the clients – the crowd of mature, aware-of-themselves women trying on floral dresses and passionately advising on their purchases with their patient (and equally stylish) husbands is surprising. Observing this scene is beautiful and heartwarming in its own way. Meanwhile, trying on faux-furs and preciously embellished sweaters at the menswear floor is double the pleasure…

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A.F. Vandevorst‘s store is small, but dynamic. The brand is known for off-kilter, punky attitude – better get your hands on those chunky knits and signature, pointy-toe boots. They sell out quickly. The braver once might want to indulge themselves in kinky, PVC coats and patchwork dresses coming from the brand’s latest venture into haute couture world.

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All photos from Antwerp are by Edward Kanarecki.

Visiting Toruń

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Toruń is one of the oldest cities in Poland, which over centuries was the home for people of diverse backgrounds and religions. Back in the Medieval times, the city was considered the most culturally and technologically advanced centre in Europe. Moreover, during the World War II, Toruń appeared to be one of the few cities in the country, which was left with no damage. No wonder why the Old Town, fully preserved, looks so beautiful and breathes with its history up to now. Nearly every building here is made of brick, while the churches (the cathedral, dating back to 1236, is a must-see!) are  untouched. Walking down the sun-drenched streets, you wonder whether you’re strolling around Brugge or an old Tuscan village…

If you’re here for one day, make sure to visit the District Museum (or Toruń Regional Museum), which is located in the historic Rathaus. The ground floor is an impressive collection of Gothic art and local craftsmanship, while the upper floors hold paintings of Polish artists from XVIII to XX century. Currently, there’s an exhibition of modern art, which presents some of Zdzisław Beksiński, Władysław Hasior and Łukasz Korolkiewicz’s rare works.

In case of culinary experiences, Toruń is recognised for its famous gingerbread. But if you want something less clichéd, try a more niche, off-the-crowd spots. Od Dechy Do Dechy is a cozy, book-filled bar with signature beers, home-made pastries and coffee. Sometimes, they sell second-hand books and vinyls. Perfect place to chill after a busy day.

To sum up, Toruń is totally worth a stay, especially in the summer!

Photos by Edward Kanarecki.