Stomping Feet

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This season is definetly theirs. Nothing will stop them this Winter, even Tom Ford’s fairy-tale thigh high boots with hand made embroideries. Well, Tom Ford would throw up if he would heard that the famous club footed giant clobs with rubber soles would be gesting his runway. But still the inner beauty soul of mine still loves Tom’s creation… but this is not the thing. Fashion giants like Prada, Stella McCartney and Jil Sander together with a plague of young british designers are just crazy about them. Masculine inspired shoes, so called boots nowadays have lots of not too kind nicknames- mammonthly elevatedm tractor tread shoes. But why do women love them. Easy answear- they are simply ugly. Sounds strange, but yes dear female readers, there is now a new fashion era of ugliness- from wearing furkenstocks on feet to mixing prints and colours, that in the past would not even make it in the cheapest pubs. But now they are the ones that are most photographed on street styles and in magazine editorials! Boots are now the most WANTED on women’s wishlist. The next point of their amazingness is their comfortable state (no heels, wedges, mid heels, killer heels, strange ropes etc.) and practically! Now you shall were it everywhere! Even on a MET Gala during the Punk trend. Yes. Punk. Punk also made boots for women more popular. Punk was a controversy. Punks wore boots everywhere. “Normal” people in times of Punk massive attack were saying that it’s so disgusting… And now it’s the most worn shoe for almost ten seasons.

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But this season is the most  Punk’d as you can see, filtering magazines and Instagram. So no wonder why boots are killing the high heels that are just so last season! While I pretty like this shoe trend, it feels kind of rebellious and free spirited. In these shoes you will conquer your shoes. As Stella McCartney says “We’re allowed to have inner strenght and it takes that to wear those shoes”. Her collection was like a gender mix- a man shirt that was very long, making it a dress, feels a bit Marc Jacobs, but on women looks great. Laces mixed with smokings looked very modern and surely gives a inner power to every wearing it fashionista. But, these strange shoes might be very romantic, as says Miuccia Prada. True. They looked very sexy accompanied with the dresses and wet hair of models… But what makes a bit suprised, that mostly woman used this “forbidden” trend. Well, except Hedi Slimane and Karl Lagerfeld. But that’s a totally other story to tell. I mean, they are also boots, but boots designed by men this season are beautiful- full of decorations, chains. As I said on the beginning, giving example of Tom Ford, men don’t really like seeing women in these chuncky shoes. It’s better when it is high, hurty and sexy!

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London designers are just in love with them. Erdem, Christopher Kane, J.W. Anderson. All of them had boots in their collections. BUT. At Kane, the Chelsea boots were covered with feathers (not so ugly then), at Erdem with crystals (might say even beautiful, and J.W. Anderson’s were so ugly, they were simply beautiful. Yes this is a strange world of Anderson. But why mostly London designers used this type of footwear? Cheaper to make? More commercial? Or just a case of inpiration? In fact, you can wear boots everytime and everwhere. They will make it great with a slim dress or with a mohair striped SL sweater and leather leggins. Or even with a Louis Vuitton boudoir inspired lace dress (that would be a cool hard core on street style in Paris!). In other words, the Wrong Shoes as many people call, are the new IT shoes of the season, and maybe of the decade.

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The Flower Men

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One of the coolest trend from the menswear Fashion Week SS14, is for sure the floral print. It was everywhere! It was all about the variety- from sun flowers to orchids. The king of that print was definitely Dries Van Noten. His collection was very street style, comfortable and simply chic. And florals were like everywhere! On the tank tops to the sweat pants.
The exotic one was 3.1. Philip Lim with the hummingbirds and hibiscus that decorated the tops. Miuccia Prada offered knitwear with Vietnamese flowers and Raf Simons took to a scientist laboratory, where his fantastic t-shirts had some notes written around the botanical specie… I think that was the most floral season for a really long time at men’s runway, and I think that’s totally right?

 

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Men’s: Prada’s Idealogy

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“Questioning the cliche of the exotic, the cliche of the perfect summer- of impossible happiness” Miuccia Prada said in one of her very elusive comments after her Sunday Milan men’s show for S14. The wild and awesome muraks around the runway- in red, yellow and green- meant something more than a extra ordinary decoration. There was this helicopter flight sound around. The models in flower printed jackets were up to no good.
As the mysterious businessmens were walking around, holding some Shanagaim postcard like bags that looked creepy. These weren’t some kind of Gaugin flowers- the architect Rem Koolhaas and his OMA organization, described the set as “menacing paradise”. But who wouldn’t love to li e here? Clothes are rich and fresh, full of desire? There is nothing new about Tahitian shirts which Prada used before. There is still this allure feeling. It’s all about the rich mans that colonised Vietman and used their goods for them. Well, you’ve got to be imaginative to give such a dense and realistic idealogy…

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💃 Lady-Like 🐅

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The Lady trend takes a new hold through few last seasons with modernity and minimalism! And what is the new fashion object of a modern lady? No, not Jay Gatsby. A furry scarf or coat! What amazed me was the most lady like label is… Celine! Through lots of seasons, Phoebe Philo used I think the biggest amount of fur in her beautiful clothes! Prada in SS11 did a crazy thing with furry scarves- stripey print and lots of colours! This AW season Marc Jacobs used fur in a mature way- these accessories together with the gold gowns would be right thing for Gatsby woman…

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Pictures: from left to right: 1. Jean Paul Gaultier Pre Fall 13 and The Row Resort 14, 2.,3. Prada SS11, 4. Celine Pre-Fall 11, 5. Marc Jacobs Resort 14, 6. Lanvin AW13, 7. Marni AW13, 8. Celine Pre Fall 10, 9. Marc Jacobs AW13

Twinset. Marc Jacobs Resort’14

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Marc Jacobs suprised! And in a good meaning! Well, I thought, that Marc would do something, you know, full of flowers, colours and everything like everytime for the Resorts. And that’s totally not true! The Resort is like a continuation of SS13 and AW13. Glamorous sequins, 70’s polo shirts and skirts, New York “Great Gatsby” epoque and of course… Stripes! The collection is very mature, totally not sweet and cute as last resort.
Is Marc getting a bit of inspiration from… Prada? Look at the blue stripes- and now see SS11 of Miuccia Prada. The crepe skirts are just like Miu Miu SS13 and use of fur in summer? Plus there are also lots of crystals that were in the 2010 Prada era… As for me that’s totally clear- Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs are life friends so why not? Will we see soon a collab of these two!
And back to the collection- Jaime Bochert looks beautiful here! Just as the collection!

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