Playful Simplicity. Celine Pre-Fall’15

May 2, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

There is always a kind of strong anticipation while waiting for the release of Celine’s pre-collections. What Phoebe Philo is going to propose to us this season? Pre-fall at Celine usually means a selection of classical, sophisticated clothes kept in toned colours – this time, Phoebe went slightly more playful, pushing her austere comfort zones. After seeing the AW15 collection, I wasn’t surprised its pre-version will be kind of fun. Hand-embroidered folklore caftans, fringed ponchos and over-sized, burgundy culottes are just few to mention. There was also the slip-dress action – worn in a very Celine-ish way, it felt light and slightly infantile, but in a good way. In overall, a confusion between mature elegance and childish innocence was presemt in these as usually great clothes. Can’t wait to see it strike the stores!

Gris. Jacquemus Pre-Fall’15

January 29, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jacquemus gets commercial… and this is his first pre-fall collection. This look-book is not the thing you would expect from Simone Porte – his usually naive, colourful collections are contradictory to this mature, sharp and, as the name suggest, grey-shaded pre-fall. The background seems to be disturbing, too – factories and desolated beach… if talking of the clothes, we can observe exaggerated shoulders, school-uniform lengths and rounded “panels” jutting out of the skirts and tops. Personally, I prefered Jacquemus being more… conceptual? Not that muted?

Faux Nostalgia. J.W. Anderson Pre-Fall’15

January 9, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson surprises. His SS15 was unexpectedly lady-like while pre-fall is very nostalgic – 60’s mini skirts, 70’s psychedelic prints and “granny” necklaces and bracelets. “Nothing works together,” he added gleefully during the presentation. “When something makes me uncomfortable, I resist the temptation to make it look good.” That’s visible- in this collection he mixes so many styles from the past, that the result seems to be modern, and surreal. A bit like the Soviet Russian architecture – at the first sight it seems to be modern, but in reality deep historical influences hide behind it’s walls.

Ukrainian Institute of Technology, Kiev

Presidium of the Russian Academies of Science, Moscow

Polythechnic Institute, Minsk

But coming back to the collection – “I’ve never been a designer designer,” he said. “I see it more as a look, what’s new right now.” And this—with its odd fabrics and peculiar proportions, cerebral and sensual—looks just that. New right now. But with faux cover which hides the old roots. The colours and textures combined with those curvy belts and emalia earrings makes me wonder. And I like when a collection makes me want to think, compare and research.

Back to Basics

March 13, 2014August 31, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Celine just gave as a taste of what is their Pre-Fall’14 collection about- it’s toned, full of grey and black wool. And everything is a want- from this big-buttoned coat to those pleated skirts. Or even that white shirt with this fur stole. And of course the pointy shoes worn with socks! Seriously, this collection is a master-piece. The clothes are timeless and mature at the same time… keeping it very Phoebe Philo. My heart gets so big as these round earrings, seeing this Pre-Fall’14 collection…

René Gruau. Dior Pre-Fall’14

January 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

This super cute collection by Raf Simons for Dior reminds me too bad of Laduree macarons and the smell of Parisian perfumeries. With beautifully ilustrated dresses by Rene Gruau from 40’s, this collection is definitely one of the best from Raf. The coats in pastel colours, the poncho mixed with a graphic shirt and the new versions of Miss Dior bags match my taste a lot. And I love how Simons takes archives back to present- in his way, it feels much more fresh and artistic.