Christopher Kane‘s pre-fall 2018 is for all the impossible princesses out there. Acid splashed neon lace, witchy allure… not your average cute and charm.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
The Look – Christopher Kane Pre-Fall’19
Pre-Fall 2018
Last. Céline Pre-Fall 2018
Yes, it’s the sad truth. Phoebe Philo‘s pre-fall 2018 really is the last collection for Céline. And, once you calm down after a minute (or two), let the tears dry, face it – this collection is a gift that keeps on giving. I think I’ve went through the images dozens of times by now and I constantly discover something new, something completely fresh, something only Philo could do. As Sarah Mower wrote for Vogue, it’s a collection of “souvenirs”, collectibles to wear and adore in memory of Philo’s Céline era. Those wool ponchos; heavy rubber boots; Margiela-esque duvet coats; the white fur coat with an equally fur belt; simple, Katharine-Hepburn-would-approve blazers. The spontaneous shots of Binx Walton, Jess Cole, Karolin Wolter and Maggie Maurer (all the beloved Céline girls) by Juergen Teller get me freaking excited as well. That’s a very, very precious fashion moment to me. And I really can’t wait to see and get hold of some of these pieces once they hit the stores this summer.
Sportswear is basic, I know. But the burgundy track suit can’t be ignored.
Also, I’ve realised Juergen Teller wore this fur coat to his latest shoot for Pop Magazine.
That. Look. In. The. Middle. I can’t.
Well, that’s all. All good things come to an end, even if we don’t want to end.
All collages by Edward Kanarecki.
At Home. Chloé Pre-Fall 2018
If you ask Natacha Ramsay-Levi to define her own style, the answer won’t be as straightforward as you would expect from a designer. “I admire people who have a uniform, but I’ve never found mine and I probably never will because I love fashion’s diversity,” she explained. Pre-fall 2018 is Natacha’s second collection for Chloé, a female-loving French maison, and it already feels that even if she doesn’t have an arbitrary ‘look’ that has to end up in the stores, she feels here like at home. And that’s good – thanks to that, the creative director’s work has a sense of easiness. What we discovered about Ramsay-Levi in her debut is that she has a soft point for jaw-dropping boots and whimsical jewellery (those pieces smoothly transit into the autumn days). Here, it’s a strong game of cognac leather coats, shirt-dresses and 70s blouses. Also, the designer wisely does the horse-rider style that’s distinctly Chloé, whether we’re speaking of the tiny horse prints on bags or wool capes. Although white socks tend to get on my nerves after 2017’s Vetements obsession, the way Natacha pulls them off in her refined pre-fall makes you wonder, whether luxe-y athleisure is back.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Paris. Sonia Rykiel Pre-Fall 2018
I’ve been quite absent for the last week, because of a really nasty flu – but this doesn’t mean I wasn’t peeking at the splash of pre-fall collections. Well, that already seems like a dull season, to be honest. But one label really did caught my eye.
Julie de Libran‘s take on Sonia Rykiel has fluctuating results – sometimes, her collections can be described as just ‘basic’, with no depth or any braver concept. However, as in case of pre-fall 2018, there are the right shots. “It’s just a sweater, a skirt, and a good boot,” she might have said modestly. Still, those look more than ‘just good’. And how Parisian (sorry for the cliché, but it’s a fact!). The leather coat-dress in ecru is gorgeous, just like the semi-sheer jacquard gowns in red and navy. Seems like a perfect New Year’s Eve go-to wardrobe, if only it came early enough to the stores… After more than three years of creative direction, it feels that de Libran and Rykiel brand built a strong bond. The designer revealed that she recently became a shareholder and partner in Sonia Rykiel. “I’m part of the family now”. With such great collections coming, Julie proves she succesfully continues the legacy of the late, Left Bank Parisienne.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Hamburg. Chanel Pre-Fall 2018
I adore Chanel‘s Métiers d’Art shows (which work as pre-falls) for the fact they really are about the clothes, not some temporary venues built in the Parisian Grand Palais. Well, the place of yesterday’s fashion show was more than important for Karl Lagerfeld – it was Hamburg, a port city in Germany which happens to be the designer’s birthplace. The building, where the show was staged – futuristic Herzog & de Meuron Elbephilharmonie – was a perfect backdrop for those refined, beautiful clothes. That certain kind of neat elegance, accompanied by classical orchestral music, felt very German. Maison Michel–made nautical tweed caps and navy Guernsey knits nicely matched the marine nature of Hamburg, which up to now was out of the fashion world’s radar. Seems like a perfect wardrobe for now – even though it hits the store late summer…
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Design & Culture by Ed 