No.21 by Alessandro Dell Acqua is definitely the biggest highlight of Italian fashion this year- with his sporty approach to Italian detailing and quality, the label is a bestseller at all on-line stores. Dell Acqua’s Resort 2013 collection for this modern label is a mix of paradise prints, loose tousers, lace jackets and chic flats. This pretty short lookbook may feel pretty modest, but the clothes themself are beautiful. Questo è il nome da ricordare!
Cedric Charlier’s Colour Blocking
Belgian designer Cedric Charlier’s eponymous label boasts clean, sporty cuts in a rainbow of bright hues, colour block patterns and abstract prints this Resort 2014 season. As Cedric is a pretty new name in Parisian fashion scene, he already has an eye on the future. How not to love these easy-going dresses, funny prints and comfortable suits in these Summer colours? I feel powerless to that.
UFO Tribes. McQueen SS14
The Alexander McQueen Summer for 2014 was defintely out of this world. Sarah Burton changed her characteristic avant-garde style of past English Queen gowns with lace and pearls into alien costumes, dresses and trousers in grafic prints and strong colours. The collection was inspired with African tribes… but possibly coming from Mars. The plexi killer heels that really remind Alexander McQueen’s footwear when he was alive were so, so cosmic! The sexy bustiers mixed with feathers reminded of strong women wearing futuristic creations, and the gold helmets… And the last four looks are certainly this, what the techno Masais wear in the future. And possibly in very close future!
Rock ‘n Chic. Saint Laurent SS14
That was the third Saint Laurent fashion show under the wings of Hedi Slimane, and it was… the best! I am still blown up after this collection that was presented in Grand Palais in Paris yesterday. On the entry, there was a big, LED lights installation that reminded of some abstract piece of art. And then the show begun of course with… Edie Campbell, with gloomy hairstyle and eye make-up. She wore a beautiful V-neck dress in black colour. Sexy and chic. Then the classical Yves Saint Laurent Le Smoking shown in a much more casual way. The collection wasn’t punk itself- it was very chic and elegant, but had a rock ‘n roll twist too. Stripes t-shirts, sequined jackets, sharp hair-cuts, over-large sleeves and lips/fire print on few mini dresses. Hedi definitely got mad with all these grunge boots from Winter, but certainly he did fell in love with socks under stilettos… I think this is one of the coolest trend, while most people are totally on NO when they see this. But in the Saint Laurent edition, it simply looked great. The SS14 collection by Saint laurent was definitely one of my favourite this season!
Masai. Givenchy SS14
Riccardo Tisci delivered this season something a bit more than prints. Just like the SS14 for men, the collection for women was strongly inspired with African and South American tribes of Masai, Aztecs and much more. Model wore jewelled masks, traditional, colourful jewellery and of course… Beautiful gowns made of silk and embroideries. What I loved about Givenchy’s SS14 for women, is that it wasn’t so trivial and a bit out of idea. Yes, there were some prints, but in closer look that was all made of sequins. The dresses and tops were too made with Haute Couture precission. The colours, forms… I don’t really imagine a woman wearing this on a party (note: there was no high heels in this collection!) but it’s still a great experience to see these clothes life. Riccardo Tisci, thanks God, came back to Earth, and again creates amazing collections!
Design & Culture by Ed 