The House. Richard Quinn AW20

I want it to be London-centric, but looking out towards the world,Richard Quinn declared after his autumn-winter 2020 show. The set – a house facade with his name above the door – was right there. And then the doors opened and the inhabitants, smothered head to foot in crystal and pearl from gimp masks to shoes, began to walk out. The first two were a bedazzling haute-couture beaded sublimation of a London king and queen. GOD SAVE THE QUIN was embroidered amongst their insanely armored finery. Yes, Quinn debuted menswear. That was a surprise. “If we’re building a house, we need men and women in it,” said Quinn. “I’m imagining a house with rooms that have all these different people living in these interiors, whether they’re the harsh, dark and sexy S&M ones, or the more romantic ones.” The idea – and a very Yves-Saint-Laurent-meets-Christian-Lacroix execution – feels appealing. But I just can’t get why Quinn, whose label is so young, does nearly the same thing over and over again. I understand that he wants to establish the brand’s codes, but isn’t it too early to be so retrospective? The dresses come in identical silhouettes every season, while his prints – which are also his house-made signature! – always end on big florals. He’s a big talent, but I really want to see his creativity go elsewhere from time to time.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Spontaneous. Dries Van Noten AW18

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 The first days of Paris fashion week show that this season, the designers or choose to do commercial clothes, or lean on their well-known brand codes. Dries van Noten belongs to the latter, with his classically Dries-y collection. Backstage, he talked of ‘spontainety’ – about wearing the clothes nonchalantly, not caring much, feeling comfortable at the moment. Most unmatching colours and prints are clashed gracefully, while faux-fur inserts brings joyful dynamism to black knee-lenght dresses. The ‘peasant’ blouse looks like your next season’s day-to-day favourite.  The outerwear is remarkable (as usual!). And I guarantee you that you won’t find better prints this season. In other words, it’s a very fine Dries Van Noten collection.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Orient. Christian Wijnants AW17

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In his autumn-winter 2017 fashion show, Christian Wijnants celebrated the idea of a world with no borders. Not being too referential about the orient, he and his in-house studio developed one-of-a-kind prints which had a lot to do with traditional paisley and Persian rugs patterns. A brilliant remix of oriental rhythms and booming beats were another clue of the designer’s inspiration. However, the styling of those flowing maxi-dresses and skirts was purely European. In bold colours of orange, green and purple, the Belgian designer focused on the technical side of his clothes: the pleats were made of polyamide to keep the silhouette, while the sweaters were of highest quality Alpaca and other yarns to satisfy a Wijnants client for years. At the Le Marais showroom, to see and touch the clothes, I’ve spotted that the python boots in yellow were the star among the buyers. No wonder why.

Backstage / showroom photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Psychedelic and Fancy. Dries Van Noten SS16

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Psychedelic and fancy – Dries Van Noten for spring-summer 2016 is all about that. I have never expected to see anything tulle at Dries’ show – but, there is always the first time. A tulle dress was worn with denim shorts and a “dad’s” blazer. The velvet clogs gave the look a fantastic edginess. The effect? Wow, I thought. The rest of the collection, which nearly contained all textiles of the world, from brocade and mohair to silk and jacquard, was bold and based on all-time favourites of the brand. The clothes were somewhere between the feminine zone and masculine basics. Over-sized denim flares looked effortlessly cool with these beautifully embroidered coats while the patterned turlenecks and tights gave each outfit an unconventional touch. Even though the collection of this Belgian designer might make your eyes feel pain  due to all that colour, the collection seems to have a lot of highly desirable pieces.

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Colour Blocking. Roksanda Resort’16

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Roksanda Ilincic shows, that colour blocking trend is in, even if she is the only one who does it! This might sound sarcastic, but she really does her geometric thing in fashion in a very good way. For Resort 2016, watch out for colourful maxi dresses, domino printed high-waisted skirts and fabulous coats in pink and tourquoise. Plus, the gorgous ribbon pumps give the whole “cubistic” collection a healthy dose of femininity. By watching her career from the beginning, there is no wonder why is a favourite to many women.

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