“Making flowers look new is not easy. Kane did so by dissecting the blooms’s decorative potential, quite literally. Petals were singled out as large-scale ergonomic cutouts traced in shiny patent that gave a graphic, pop effect to clean silhouettes in pastel solids and engineered lace” declared WWD after SS14 collection by Christopher Kane. Shortly: I LOVE IT TOO BAD. BEST, BEST, BEST! Everything was so amazing in this presentation. These laser cuts on dresses in flower patterns, the sweatshirts with flower cross-sections taken from Biology book, this high-tech made dresses and tops in spectrum colours. The flower biological anatomy was the key of the collection- I never thaught boring Biology lessons can be so inspiring! The emboidered petals, stems, anthers and stigmas looked fantastic on all closing dresses… and the “iron” droplets topic? Oh my, simply fantastic. Everything in this collection is so perfect and cool- why not- Christopher Kane is a real fashion genius, and I am happy Kering Group didn’t kill his spirit! Christopher Kane SS14 rules!
Prints
Modern. Prabal Gurung SS14
Prabal Gurung shocked New York with one thing- he did really shock! This SS14 collection is a masterpiece. It’s like a one big Picasso painting- ubstract, surrealistic and modern! With a runway covered with aluminium foil, the models “phress off the runway” in amazing leather skirts with colourful prints and amazing Zana Bayne custom made leather lingerie under these beautiful shirts… This season at PG was very lady-like (the forms, dresses, coats) but totally modernized with mesmerizing embroiderment Prabal detailing! There was a lot of discreet transparency in the skirts and blouses, which made the models look feminine within all these killing prints… After boring gowns and routine holograms, Gurung certainly did break his limits!
“PRABAL GURUNG has always taken the notion of a powerful woman seriously (see: sharp tailoring, bondage detailing, harness belts, etc.), and this season will be no different. For Spring ’14, Gurung collaborated with New York-based jeweler Chris Habana on a covetable collection of tough-chic, striking statement pieces, such as acrylic-adorned armor rings (which debut exclusively here) and razor-embellished ear cuffs. “What initially drew me to the beauty of Chris’ designs is that they are so raw yet painstakingly crafted,” Gurung told Style.com. “My heart lies downtown and his work reminds me of the glory days of New York, particularly the East Village, which was the underground epicenter of creativity.” Style.com exclusive for the new season jewellery at PG!
Cool Girls. Peter Som SS14
The second day of fashion week in New York is all about Summer glamour, lightness and bright prints- but not as last summer, where we could see only stripes. No it’s all about a la Emilio Pucci prints that look super sexy on the swimsuits. The Peter Som collection for SS14 was definetely one of these cool shows. The blue colours looked refreshing, just like the geometric lines and white, over large dresses! The collection was a bit about the style of mixing prints and trends- it was a pleaure to see these vintage looking shoes in leo dots mashed up into the look of the beautiful balloon white dress. This young designer’s leather speciality is for sure the eel skin- this pretty specific fabric was used to cover whole coat that looked marvellous! But, I can’t hide my impression, that Peter certainly did copy some details from past collections of his New York “in the proffesion” friends…
Tisci and Friends
I think Riccardo Tisci really got a rotweiller in his ass (in a good way of course)! Tisci is the creative director of Givenchy and is one of the most influencial menswear and womenswear designer from Paris. He is known for prints (Rottweiler, flowers, Madonna, Jesus, etc.) and street inspired clothing. And it’s not the end. He had his two whole interviews and editorials in Self Service and GQ (the one I’m showing is from Self Service), will design ballerina costumes for Bolero in one of the most known Parisian opera, makes friends with Kanye West and Jay-Z and if like it wasn’t enough, he created amazing scene costumes for Rihanna’s Diamond Tour. Crazy, isn’t it?
In the Self Service editorial Tisci is in his Atelier Givenchy “house” in Paris (it’s on Avenue George V, the building is next to Balenciaga boutique) siting on black sofa with his favourite model Joan Smalls and his friends from the runways. Of course every one wears pre-fall 2013 collection. And here I’ve got some backsatge pics from recent Givenchy show- full of grunge, romantic vibes, prints and Givenchy spirit. I personally loved the collection! It is the real Parisienne chic!
Design & Culture by Ed 