I think Proenza Schouler discovered TOO many fields for AW15. Fish net tights. Tribal embroidery (feathers, some kind of jungle decoration which came out of nowhere) . Flesh-exposure (Helmut Lang’s calling!). It wouldn’t be a Proenza Schouler collection without the complex textile processes that make their pieces so special and so synthetic. Backstage, they called it their most technical collection yet – as they described sections of “chiffon needle-punched over over and again to create a stiffened fabric used on the tailoring and the tweed that was made out of strips of fabrics, that were especially woven for the purpose”.  Even without knowing the ins and outs of all the fabrications, it was obvious that what pulsed through was pure innovation. But innovation doesn’t always mean a good collection. I prefer when the collection has a fluent line, even if it’s is called abstract, sophisticated or mindful. In this collection, Jack and Lazaro lost this fluency which they always mastered in previous collections. Plus, I can’t forgive the fish-net tights. But, look! They debuted with menswear! There is only one look for men, but. Although, I don’t feel this specific collection, I am truly interested where Proenza Schouler is heading in the future,