Homo Sapiens Chic. Prada AW25

January 20, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

As the world is in flames and the U.S. is entering the second presidency of Donald Trump, it seems we’re jumping from one dystopian vision… to another. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons aren’t pretending to have all the answers like they once did. But they surely know how to dress men in this strange, strange world.

Crude furs. Rough cuts. Bare chests. Primary instincts. The return of homo sapiens chic. This is what Prada is for autumn-winter 2025. “It is a bit of an answer, as always, to what is happening. So we have to resist with our instinct, and our humanity, and our passion, and our hands in a world that is becoming so conservative,” the Signora mused.

Nothing is ever obvious with these two. But this season, the designers are offering somewhat obvious building blocks for a man who isn’t certain of tomorrow. Anorak puffers, slightly over-sized tailoring, very heavy knitwear. But there’s space for beauty, that little sparky thing that makes us human. A pink flower-brooch tucked into a jacket’s label, for instance. Or the wallpaper print ornamenting the surface of a barely-there t-shirt, worn by a modern-day Narcissus.

Keep your eye on the donut, not the hole.

R.I.P. David Lynch.

ED’s SELECTION:

Prada Men’s Spazzolato Triangle Logo Penny Loafers

Prada Men’s Velluto Coste Corduroy and Suede Gloves

Prada Men’s Oxford Dress Shirt

Prada Men’s Relaxed-Fit Washed Denim Jeans

Prada Men’s Cotton Moleskin Jacket

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Ugly Chic, Extreme. Prada SS25

September 20, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Back in the 90s, Miuccia Prada introduced “ugly chic“, a style so wildly anti-fashion it polarized the entire fashion industry. Yesterday, together with her creative partner Raf Simons, Prada presented a collection so notorious, bizarre and “wrong” that one can either hate-hate it or hate-love it. I’m grateful to both of them for showing a collection that sparked true dismay and confusion – finally, fashion that doesn’t just deliver momentary visual satisfaction or, at worse, lack of any impression. Like a remix of Prada’s greatest hits seen through the lens of a teen who’s living a “Brat” summer 365 days in a year (and probably loves acid), the tackiness, ill-fittingness and clumsiness of this collection reaches perverse levels. So perverse, you feel a kinky affection to it. Yes, contemporary fashion can still make waves, edge the internet so sharply it will spill venomous hate in response, and leave the viewers electrified – with unhinged ecstasy or absolute frustration. Prada and Simons are still capable of shaking the status quo of aesthetics. This is “ugly chic, extreme“.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Obsessed: Prada AW24 Menswear

July 23, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Some of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons‘ ideas might not resonate immediately when seen on the runway. But six months later, the moment they arrive to the stores, these concepts become more approachable – and turn into obsessions. A menacing tension felt palpable once the models, dressed as corporate commuters, walked on the raised glass floor with a stream running through a meadow beneath. But when you put Prada‘s autumn-winter 2024 venue aside, you see great, great menswear – and accessories, like the wool caps in the most striking shades of green, yellow and red. The collection itself consisted of ultimate classics of menswear, as Simons listed for “the businessman, the working man, the thinking man.” The Prada twist was about touches that subverted these safe spaces of identity, enticing the wearer to surround himself with nature. Narrow-fit raincoats, tweed chore jackets, three-button gray topcoats, and gold buttoned naval outerwear all offered a route outdoors. This is a Prada outing that offers safeness and quintessence, clothes-wise.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Men’s – Youthful Optimism. Prada SS25

June 17, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

After a couple of seasons dedicated to tackling problems of our contemporary times, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons maybe aren’t in an entirely optimistic mood, but they are hopeful for the future – and the young generation. The spring-summer 2025 menswear Prada collection was dedicated to the feeling of “just going” with your guts when you’re young and not overthinking it too much. That was reflected in the seemingly pre-loved clothes, crumpled and creased, mismatched and cropped as if a couple of sizes too small. Simons explained: “There are elements that are female, masculine, coming from mom, dad, grandad, grandmother. Maybe things from your memories… and fantasy!”, interjected Prada. Although the designers didn’t want their new season effects look too constricted or contrived, it a bit was the case with the Lego-colored boiler suits (Simons just can’t help but return to them. Maybe he will get it right one day?). But there were also pieces in this collection that truly feel investment-worthy: pony-hair black coat with short sleeves, tops illustrated with graphic artworks by Bernard Buffet, cool wind-jackets in rave tones, slinky cardigans. The first look’s blonde-haired model who opened the door of the show venue’s toy-ish, white house wore a very Milan-coded outfit: a thin, v-neck navy sweater, sartorially-elegant grey pants with pleats and a pair of vintage-y sneakers. How Prada!

Need a Prada wardrobe fix?

ED’s SELECTION:

Men’s Saffiano Leather Logo Triangle Crossbody Bag

Men’s Denim Trucker Jacket

Men’s Silk Bermuda Shorts

Men’s Silk-Cotton Sweater

Men’s Show Nylon Bomber Jacket

Men’s Gingham Poplin Sport Shirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Romance With The Past. Prada AW24

February 22, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Prada o’clock is Milan Fashion Week’s prime-time. And with a collection like today’s outing, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons once again confirm that their dialogue is the ultimate creative powerhouse. The autumn-winter 2024 collection, presented on a glass runway elevated above terrarium of moss and streams, is an exploration of notions of beauty, of a contemporary world formed by memories. Romance with the past is a recurring theme in Miuccia’s work, and it seems that Raf is feeling more and more comfortable with playing around with the old-fashioned feminine decorum: prim cardigans, lace, bows. But in case of Prada, the old always feel new, revelatory and simply unexpected. Dresses were covered in layers of ribbons, but don’t you dare calling it “coquette“. These women, a bit bourgeoisie, a bit activists, in their knee-length boots and biker caps, aren’t here to lounge. The suiting and outerwear looked “normal” in the front, but in fact was absolutely revealing in the back. Prada and Simons really indulged themselves in the richness of textures and layers: we have feathers, crushed velvet, butter-smooth leathers, technical cotton, fur trims. Speaking of leather, these cropped perfectos – styled with apron-like skirts – felt so good. If “sexy” wasn’t really addressed so far in the creative duo’s work, then this collection delivers many levels and ideas of sexuality, from something kinky, even perverse, to classic Old Hollywood allure (think housecoats with sharp waists and the cold-shoulder moment of the finale dress kept in the most hypnotic shade of Victorian purple). A total YES.