Abstract Feel. Dior AW15

March 9, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Oh yes! Raf Simons again makes his fashion interesting. For fall, the RTW collection looks cosmic – high-tech sequins look like second, shiny skin of the model; the psychodelic latex boots and printed dresses are super eye-catchy. The green coat is toxic in it’s beauty. Everything lacquered and at the same time reminding something of reptiles and other animals. The furs and interesting fluid-like craft techniques are mind-blowing. Raf Simons described this collection not only primitive in a sense, but as “something more liberated, darker, more sexual.” Something more than Dior’s femme fleur, in other words which he brought monotonously for few seasons.

HC: Latex Dreams. Dior SS15

January 30, 2015January 30, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Raf Simons did some crazy latex knee boots with rhinestone crystal inside. Having Allen Jones provoking furniture and art on his mood-board, Raf Simons fused Great Gatsby jumpsuits, 60’s prints and flattering 70’s silhouettes into one, beautiful collection. “My first Couture shows were exercises in understanding the history. The more you understand, the more you see what it can become.” Definitely, Raf is more into couture at Dior… thoses striped tulle skirts are mesmerising! So tribal. The jumpsuits look chic and stylish. And latex shoes which covered the legs made it all a bit eccentric, sexy, flirty.

Photos by Lea Colombo

Men’s – Gender Fuse. Raf Simons AW15

January 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Raf Simons is one of those Belgian designers, that always surprise. And, again, I must admit – Raf is much better at his own label than at Dior. Here he can really experiment, have fun. “Youth on a pedestal.” That was Simons explanation of the staging of his show tonight, with its catwalk raised high above the crowd. The models wore almost-floor-length coats, gilets, that could be really analised by the editors.”I wish there could be 10,000 people here tonight,” Simons said of the warehouse on the outskirts of Paris where he staged his show. “A gathering of people, the way it was in the beginning.” After seeing this collection, I thought of first Helmut Lang collections, and Raf Simons archives. This collection, thanks to it’s gender fusing silhouettes, wild doodles placed on the coats, yellow golfs and crotchets, felt so different. Nostalgic. Youthful. Definitely that’s what Raf wanted to produce this season.

Tokyo. Dior Pre-Fall’15

December 13, 2014December 13, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Raf Simons seems to have two personalities- one at his namesake label for men, where he doesn’t care about the rules; another at Dior, where he definitely obeys the bosses. Last season (SS15), in my opinion was trash. I truly couldn’t understand it. It felt like Simons explained it only by “oh, look, it’s like this, but look at those couture embroideries”… yawn. Come on, who cares about embroideries, if the clothes are so boring? Thankfully, Dior thought of something new for the house, which was smart. The pre-fall 2015 which was presented few days ago was organised in Tokyo- the place were Dior has it’s boutiques on nearly every street. Commercially, this is genius for the house. But for fashion? Raf Simons had his model walk zigzags in a huge sumo wrestling arena, inspired by the scenes of Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner movie. With fuses of futuristic influences (that badly reminded me of Paco Rabanne gold years) like silver sequined turtlenecks, jacquard motifs and wax cotton coats, Simons brought a lifey twist into his Dior timeline. And what’s interesting although the fact the show was in Tokyo, Japan, we didn’t notice even one kimono, manga print or anything of Japanese stereotypical fashion. Definitely, Raf looked at Japanese woman of the future- stomper boots, wide trousers and clean lines with neon elements. Plus, corn-rows and super kawaii eye-brows. Personally, I have no offend to Raf Simons- sometimes, he is just not on the point. However, this dynamic show proved one thing: not only that Raf has better and worse days in his life, but also that Tokyo is an amazing, energetic city of fashion.

Just to be in the Japan mood- here are some amazing vintage posters from Wafu Works…

Fashion History. Dior SS15

September 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The music was so bad, that Anna Wintour run away in the middle of the show, screaming “horrible fashion”. Well. Half that’s true. The music certainly was bad, and the clothes were also not really good… Raf Simons continues the same idea as during his last couture- to show history of fashion changing throughout one show. First we had medival gowns, pilgrim caftans. Then, lady-like skirt-and-tops. At the end, cosmic jumpsuits. Mostly all-white collection, with few drops of red velvet and blue tulle, felt for me not so good. It kind of didn’t have this thing that Raf usually brings to Dior. This modernity of past or how he calls it, starts to be boring. And I still can’t forgive the shoes. They looked to heavy, and destroyed nearly all looks. I don’t want to hate, but this thing doesn’t work on me. Hope Dior is not falling down again…