Brooklyn Heights. Dior Resort’15

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Dior and Brooklyn sound strange in one sentence. The baby of Parisian LVMH and a district of New York? Believe that or not, but that’s totally true- Dior showed it’s Resort 2015 collection in Navy Yard Greenhouse, from which a beautiful view of Manhattan’s skyscrapers is seen. In my opinion, the collection (excluding the fact it was presented in Brooklyn) was one of the best that Raf Simons presented to date. The artistic director created a smart, lovely and energetic collection that is a mix of eternal Parisian chic and the new New York style. Simons took up the silk scarf—le carré, as they say in Paris—as the show’s leitmotif. It meant that these clothes were more fluid than the sculpted and molded silhouettes of some of his previous collections for Dior. And, of course, you had an impression you look at art- everything felt artsy and very free-spirited!

About the artist: Lucien Freud is known chiefly for his thickly impastoed portrait and figure paintings, he was widely considered the pre-eminent British artist of his time. His works are noted for their psychological penetration, and for their often discomforting examination of the relationship between artist and model.

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Deja Vu. Dior AW14

Slide01O-oh. I understand Raf’s aesthetic is so minimalistic, feminine and innovative… but this starts to get boring what he does at Dior. And most of all, what he done at AW14. This is his biggest fail since he came to this Parisian maison. It’s too new new look, too minimalistic and too passe. Seriously, see the first Raf Simons collection for the house (SS13) and now see this. Firsly, these coloured bags and scarves looked nice on masculine suits and those pretty to death dresses at the start of new legacy… But now we are sinking in the monotony of Raf Simons straight rules. Nothing caught my eyes here- the colours looked bad, the tied strings on dresses looked bad, the green column gown was a deja vu from Jil Sander past, and the last dresses with crystals are copies of the last Haute Couture for SS14… Does Raf thinks he is so legendary to create an “account” collection? I say “no”. And we certainly need something new to come.

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HC: DIOR SS14

Slide06 The Dior couture show for SS14 was a perfect marriage of modern elegance and sport chic. The sheer, flawless dresses made out of high-tech fabrics looked simple and comfortable, while they were worn not with classical stilettos, but with… trainers. Yes. The haute couture show was accompanied by sporty footwear. And I must admit- I am insanely in love with this idea. The new vision of couture created by Raf Simons is about paying attention to detail, but making it all comfortable… but still expensive and luxurious. As always, the collection was presented in Musee Rodin, that was for time being transformed into a white, hand sculpted room where the show took place. What I loved was the 60’s approach of prints and colours. And of course the feminine touch Raf Simons challenges every season at Dior!zdjęcie 1 Slide07 Slide08 _ON_1464.450x675 Slide09 Slide10 Slide11 Slide12

René Gruau. Dior Pre-Fall’14

Slide11-kopiaThis super cute collection by Raf Simons for Dior reminds me too bad of Laduree macarons and the smell of Parisian perfumeries. With beautifully ilustrated dresses by Rene Gruau from 40’s, this collection is definitely one of the best from Raf. The coats in pastel colours, the poncho mixed with a graphic shirt and the new versions of Miss Dior bags match my taste a lot. And I love how Simons takes archives back to present- in his way, it feels much more fresh and artistic. Slide12-kopia Slide13 Slide14 Slide15

Men’s: Ruby. Raf Simons AW14

Slide1-kopia 3Since yesterday, Sterling Ruby is the hottest artist of the moment. Why? He collaborated with Raf Simons on his AW14 Menswear collection in Paris, by creating the venue decoration and putting some artistic effort into the collection. And the collection was… well, a bit unexpected. Raf Simons usually does sophisticated sportswear, and now we have something vibrant, colourful. With some cosmic details on (the bumber boots look seriously out of this world!) the sweatshirts and coats, the collection was simply cool and fresh. The radiant chunky knitwears with square patches, camel coats broken with Mondrian like print and paint splash shirts are my favourites. It’s visible, who is the real art collector in the industry…
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