Men’s: Trend Report AW14

May 31, 2014December 23, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yohji Yamamoto

Boys, we are looking forward towards the new times of fashion! So arty, gloomy, grey and posh- the AW14 season is for all sorts of men. Here, look at the strong five trends that are going to rule in your fall wardrobe.

They were moody, not sombre, said Haider Ackermann about his new season clothes that were all about his Victorian poets, floor length coats swaying through the room and Tchaikovsky chart topper. The fresh mood of men fashion is about dandy gloom that is romantic and attractive. Comme des Garcons had this wet hair look that reminded of gothic ghosts and Philip Lim had some neo-Romantism in it. Do you get that?

Camel coat, camel jacket or a camel parka- whatever, Parisian men think of camel as men’s best-friend. It’s neutral, but looks perfect with sweatpants, leather over-sized pants or elegant trousers. I really want to steal Ami’s look, where the models wore camel with white Adidas and wool sweaters… maybe it’s slightly normcore, but you may still wear it as a cowboy like at Versace (see leather bag, crocodile gloves and fur covered motorcycle helmet)!

Grey is beautiful, moody and human. There is nothing better than a luxe, comfortable track suit from Christophe Lemaire or Louis Vuitton. The razor-sharp relaxdness kills me! Every man shows his different shade of grey. So the question is, which one are you?

Raf Simons designed a collection in collaboration with Sterling Ruby. He managed to connect two worlds, fashion and art, in men collection. And he nailed it. Just like my favourite Yohji Yamamoto with his manga themed leather garments! The contrasting prints, smart signs and colour splash is the perfect way to kill normcore (normal hardcore) and be the men of art (and fashion).

This one is strange. And ugly in my opinion. But at the same time, takes men to a new dimension of uniformism- utilitarian vests Prada and Rick Owens; reconstructed and constructed coats at Maison Martin Margiela… this season brings more than excepted to men fashion. And which trend is in your type most?

Men’s: What’s Hot (17.5.14)

Image | May 17, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Brooklyn Heights. Dior Resort’15

May 8, 2014May 8, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Dior and Brooklyn sound strange in one sentence. The baby of Parisian LVMH and a district of New York? Believe that or not, but that’s totally true- Dior showed it’s Resort 2015 collection in Navy Yard Greenhouse, from which a beautiful view of Manhattan’s skyscrapers is seen. In my opinion, the collection (excluding the fact it was presented in Brooklyn) was one of the best that Raf Simons presented to date. The artistic director created a smart, lovely and energetic collection that is a mix of eternal Parisian chic and the new New York style. Simons took up the silk scarf—le carré, as they say in Paris—as the show’s leitmotif. It meant that these clothes were more fluid than the sculpted and molded silhouettes of some of his previous collections for Dior. And, of course, you had an impression you look at art- everything felt artsy and very free-spirited!

About the artist: Lucien Freud is known chiefly for his thickly impastoed portrait and figure paintings, he was widely considered the pre-eminent British artist of his time. His works are noted for their psychological penetration, and for their often discomforting examination of the relationship between artist and model.

Deja Vu. Dior AW14

March 1, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

O-oh. I understand Raf’s aesthetic is so minimalistic, feminine and innovative… but this starts to get boring what he does at Dior. And most of all, what he done at AW14. This is his biggest fail since he came to this Parisian maison. It’s too new new look, too minimalistic and too passe. Seriously, see the first Raf Simons collection for the house (SS13) and now see this. Firsly, these coloured bags and scarves looked nice on masculine suits and those pretty to death dresses at the start of new legacy… But now we are sinking in the monotony of Raf Simons straight rules. Nothing caught my eyes here- the colours looked bad, the tied strings on dresses looked bad, the green column gown was a deja vu from Jil Sander past, and the last dresses with crystals are copies of the last Haute Couture for SS14… Does Raf thinks he is so legendary to create an “account” collection? I say “no”. And we certainly need something new to come.

HC: DIOR SS14

January 21, 2014January 21, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Dior couture show for SS14 was a perfect marriage of modern elegance and sport chic. The sheer, flawless dresses made out of high-tech fabrics looked simple and comfortable, while they were worn not with classical stilettos, but with… trainers. Yes. The haute couture show was accompanied by sporty footwear. And I must admit- I am insanely in love with this idea. The new vision of couture created by Raf Simons is about paying attention to detail, but making it all comfortable… but still expensive and luxurious. As always, the collection was presented in Musee Rodin, that was for time being transformed into a white, hand sculpted room where the show took place. What I loved was the 60’s approach of prints and colours. And of course the feminine touch Raf Simons challenges every season at Dior!