Camp. Comme Des Garçons AW18

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In honour of International Women’s Day, taking a look at Comme Des Garçons autumn-winter 2018 is well advised. Rei Kawakubo is an icredible woman: she is assertive in everything she does, enigmatic, yet sharp. Her company is an empire (even though she would hate that word). Her main line of garments (counting of 16 this season) brings reflection and creativity in every sense of this word to fashion each season. This time, the spirit was more uplifting than usual. Actually, Rei was reading ‘Notes on Camp,’ Susan Sontag’s essay from 1964. As the author wrote, “Camp taste is, above all, a mode of enjoyment, not judgment. Camp is generous, it wants to enjoy. . . . Camp is a tender feeling.” The feeling is all over in here. Clashed clothes, camo with polka dots, sequins and mattresses, flowers and Betty Boop. Mix. Mash. Destroy. Create. Simply incredible.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Enigmatic. Comme Des Garçons SS18

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As usual, Rei Kawakubo‘s Comme des Garçons leaves it open to your very personal interpretation. Many questions arise, for which no answer will be given in terms of a simplistic ‘yes’ or ‘no’. Why was the collection presented at the Brutalist building of Russian embassy in Paris? Why were some of the model’s garments and headpieces featuring Hello Kitty and My Little Pony toys? What was the idea behind clashing Arcimboldo’s 16th century painting with manga? Patchwork, graffiti, accumulation. Childishness, anxiety, volumes. Does Rei even care, you critics and bloggers?

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Comme Des Garçons at The MET

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Autumn-winter 2000

Today, Rei Kawakubo‘s revolutionary and incomparable contribution to fashion will be honored at The MET ball, ahead of the exhibition opening this Thursday. Only the second show dedicated to a living designer in the institution’s history (the first was Yves Saint Laurent in 1983), it’s a testament to the radical experimentation with garments of the 74-year-old, whose dedication to ‘the art of in-between’ has earned her a cult fandom. Forget the celebs, who I doubt will wear any Comme Des Garçons with passion tonight (really, don’t make me laugh, Katy Perry). Here are my seven alternative red carpet looks, coming straight from Kawakubo’s universe.

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Autumn-winter 2012 – This collection shaped my love for fashion. That’s a fact.

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Autumn-winter 2017

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Spring-summer 2015

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Autumn-winter 2016

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Spring-summer 1997

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Spring-summer 2017

All collages are by Edward Kanarecki, the author of the blog.

Body. Comme Des Garçons AW17

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First thoughts after seeing Rei Kawakubo‘s Comme Des Garçons collection for autumn-winter 2017 (written chronologically). Post-apocalyptic vision of Nicki Minaj’s / Kim Kardashian’ bodies. A Kawakubo human changes into an over-sized mushroom. Recycling is not only ecological; it’s artistic.

Rei’s collection is the new radical. Anti-fashion. Intepret it the way you want. But don’t think of it in terms of ‘clothes’, because these garments can’t be classified that way.

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