“I love science” said Christopher Kane during his presentation of Resort 2014 for women. And this collection is seriously fantastic. Kane, inspired by the kind of digital imaging that defined the dawn of computerized special effects, did something that kicked everyone in their faces. This is like you’ve into a virtual world, where everything is 3-D and has it’s layers. There are women bodies and flowers. And now imagine, this world on a… sweatshirt or a dress! After AW13, I thought Kane’s creativity will be killed by the new group Kering that invests him lots of money. The AW13 collection was like very classical, colourless… luxurious. But now, after seeing this I am so pleased, that this absolutely great designer will be still shocking! 
The whole “computerized” idea reminded me of this little Pokemon fellow that is called Porygron. As you see, it’s also kind of virtual, edgy and colourful! From now, Porygron is the most trendy Pokemon in London! Going back to the collection, couture is strongly noticed. But a very Londonese. And I think that some super stars could for sure wear this black dress with the lily in the front- it is so beautiful! Christopher Kane is a really different designer- luxurious (price!!!) and at the same time artistic and full of idea. This is what I like! 
Resort 2014
The New Yorkers
The Resort 2014 is already arriving everyday with tones of new collcetions, and it’s the time when the the hottest designers of New York already went for a nap, and the Europeans have just woke up before the Resort/Haute Couture Fashion Weeks. So here it is- a short review of Resort’14 in New York, that covers Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Balenciaga (it’s Parisian, but for me, because of Wang as head, it’s New York), Derek Lam and Jason Wu. So lets begin with… The PS brothers, Proenza Schouler!
Well, Proenza Schouler is getting every season more mature and colourless, as you can see. Creme, white and grey colours, comfortable forms and warm prints. And it looks very similar to the Pre-Fall collection. There is no excitment, because clearly Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez stand for practicality, and their fantastic unique ideas are on the other side. Sad, because that was really different from others. Now it’s a bit Ralph Lauren- boring, classical.
From some time I really love what Joseph Altuzarra is doing recently- first he did a amazing AW13 collection, then took Stella Tennant as a muse… The resort is how he said, sensitive and very femine, but not as sexy as his past ones. We’ve got some wild west pants here and a bit cowboy shirts mixed with modern elegance. Beautiful fur scarves, white dresses, lace and gold, do really match Altuzarra style! 
No, I’m not crazy. Balenciaga officially IS Parisian, but since Alexander Wang is the creative director, it lost all Parisian Chick. The collection began from Wang’s visit at Cristobal Balenciaga Museum. Yes. Then, Alex did nothing more, but copied the archives and made them black and white. When Ghesquiere designed Balenciaga, it was inspired by archives, but it was futuristic, edgy, modern. Now, with Mr. Wang it looks only into past, and just makes a first look that it’s SO FRESH bacause of the colour palette. I thought it won’t be so bad. Now even Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent is much more better for me.
Derel Lam maybe is not a newcomer, but for sure a shooting star of NYC Fashion. This resort was minimalistic, eometrical and full of inovative fabrics. The dresses are at the time perfect for a shopping at Bergdof’s Goodman, for a run in Central Park and as well for a dinner in Nobu Tribeca. Is it a New York Celine? For now I see big future for Derek!
Jason Wu suprised me this Resort season. I usuall didn’t really like Jason Wu’s collection because they were always so formal. But, this time I am pleased! Lots of new materials, fantastic paradise prints, jeans jacketa and midi skirts, plastic trench coats, pink bra’s, transparent lace dresses… There is really a lot of telling. For sure Michelle Obama won’t wear any of these, but it looks more affordable than ever! Jason Wu, big bravo’s for the best (exequies with Marc Jacobs galmorous collection I wrote few days ago)!
Twinset. Marc Jacobs Resort’14
Marc Jacobs suprised! And in a good meaning! Well, I thought, that Marc would do something, you know, full of flowers, colours and everything like everytime for the Resorts. And that’s totally not true! The Resort is like a continuation of SS13 and AW13. Glamorous sequins, 70’s polo shirts and skirts, New York “Great Gatsby” epoque and of course… Stripes! The collection is very mature, totally not sweet and cute as last resort.
Is Marc getting a bit of inspiration from… Prada? Look at the blue stripes- and now see SS11 of Miuccia Prada. The crepe skirts are just like Miu Miu SS13 and use of fur in summer? Plus there are also lots of crystals that were in the 2010 Prada era… As for me that’s totally clear- Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs are life friends so why not? Will we see soon a collab of these two!
And back to the collection- Jaime Bochert looks beautiful here! Just as the collection!
Design & Culture by Ed 