Julien Dossena is just the right thing for Paco Rabanne. He does exactly this, what Nicolas Ghesquiere did at Balenciaga. Julien brings this futuristic Parisian house back to its rise, in a more sophisticated and 21st century way… For resort 2015 which was styled by designer’s friend, Marie Amelie Sauve, Dossena introduced a new level of sporty elegance. Strongly coloured tank tops with straps worn with pencil skirts and polished sweatpants styled with interesting tops. And of course Julien’s signature thing: the V cut! It was on the skirts, on the blouses… Maybe the new Paco Rabanne doesn’t remind us the Space Odyssey, but you need to admit- there is something extremely futuristic about it.
Resort 2015
Neo-Hippie. Christopher Kane Resort’15
What I enjoy about Christopher Kane is the fact that he can’t be tamed. Alhough he belongs to Kering group, he doesn’t hide his talent just to be more commercial. The new Resort 2015 collection is mix of his favourite things: lace, floral prints, denim and neon colours. The dresses were radiant and artsy while the pockets of jeans shorts & trousers were embroidered with beautiful flowers and insects. If talking of jewellery that’s pretty new at Kane, we had these little daisy shaped brooches that felt very childish and naive… just like the overall collection. There was also about hippie and the 60’s in here: this flower power brings peace and harmony, for goodness sake.
Sweet Dreams. No.21 Resort’15
Allesandro Dell’ Acqua is now the man behind two brands. First is his No.21, based in Milan and the second one is Rochas- based in Paris. And he makes it really, really fine! The new collection for No.21 was all about cute prints and sweet words like Darling that made the overall result very girlie and feminine. I truly fell in love with all these floral prints a la Marni and gorgeous polished bags with huge No.21 written over it. This is going to be a really lovely spring, I assume…
Quality. The Row Resort’15
Perfection. The Olsen sisters know how. If you see a woman wearing a caftan this Spring on Manhattan, then guilt The Row’s SS14. If you see huge, 900 gram heavy cashmere sweaters- also think of The Row. This eponymous brand really influences fashion. It’s ultra-luxurious approach towards the silhouettes, clothes and fabrics is impressive. Oh, fabrics. This time for Resort they were the biggest thing at The Row! Sea Island cotton, natural linen, double-face wool, supple suede and knitted cashmere are just few examples of fabrics that were used to create this great collection. And all of that was perfectly composed into gorgeous outfits! Maxi coats, oxford shoes, delicate blouses, super wide trousers… and all linked with mink belts that reminded of Phoebe Philo’s idea for AW14 Celine. To sum up, for me the American version of Celine is The Row and Parisian version of The Row is Celine. Why? Both are best quality and… perfect (sorry for my bias)!
Muse. Ellery Resort’15
The Sydney-based designer, Kym Ellery, does the most simple & sophisticated clothes at once. For her Resort 2015, she managed to make the clothes well fit for casual time and evening events! Ellery deployed her signature bell shapes with restraint, making a trumpet hem on cropped pants or fanning out the sleeves of a slinky boucle dress or cotton poplin shirt. Also, the spaghetti straps and V-cuts brought the collection a poetic attitude and mood. Ellery is for a long time one of my favourite Australian labels and I really enjoy it’s luxurious approach towards the modern evening-wear.

























