Slouchy. J.W. Anderson Resort’15

June 17, 2014June 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

I am mesmerised. I truly love this Resort 2015 collection in case of Jonathan Anderson. It’s beautiful in it’s ugliness. Kept in calm colours of beige, grey and red, the collection reminded me of the typical British country land-scape, full of farms and valleys. There was something delicate about it too. The deconstructed shirts, origami maxi dresses and the chic black costume made of a shirt and over-sized trousers were my favourites. It somehow reminds of early Prada, at which Miuccia investigated uniforms and ugliness in fashion. This slouch way of styling, these imperfections… I am looking forward to see the continuation for this interesting idea in September, Jonathan!

Motor Babe. Sonia Rykiel Resort’15

June 17, 2014June 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Change is in the air with Julie de Libran on the horizon as the new creative director at Sonia Rykiel. But for now, for the last collection, Geraldo da Conceicao did a pretty good job. This not-so-famous designer worked two years at this Parisian label and for his Resort 2015 he really rocked. As the line-up progressed, the silhouettes progressed softened significantly- and to winning effect. Updating house signatures, Geraldo put a modern twist on sparkly lurex seperates and gauzy shirtdresses. Also we had these beautiful V-neck tennis blouses and bourgeois brocade trousers. It’s worth to mention about the motorcycles… that did’t have anything really to do with the house legacy. They were just there (like the car themed styling and helmets). As Conceicao said, Madama Rykiel wasn’t a motor babe, but he imagined her riding a motorcycle, smoking a cigarette and having lots of fun! Yes, maybe Geraldo didn’t do anything amazing at Rykiel, but surely he made the house shine again. And hopefully Julie de Libran will continue his bright vision for this sensual, soft St. Germain-based brand!

Signature. Rosie Assoulin Resort’15

June 17, 2014June 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The CFDA nominee and fresh designer from New York continues to experiment with colours and volumes this season. Rosie Assoulin plays over-sized blouses, wide pants and striped gowns that look beautifully sculptural on the diverse models. I really loved all of these orange cropped tops and interesting, elegant fabrics which were used instead of typical taffeta and velvet… Looking at Assoulin collections each season, I must admit- this girl stays herself and doesn’t pretend to be the next must-have designer!

Pop It! Moschino Resort’15

June 16, 2014June 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

I am worried. Jeremy Scott is cool and popped-up but I am scared that more than 10 different ideas in on RESORT collection is too much. Reminding his first Moschino AW14 show that was really all about McDonalds, now we may choose from Pepsi logo dresses to bandana bras and cute cupcake jackets. I pretty much like the collection (“Shirt happens!” is my favourite outfit…) but if Jeremy won’t slow down the tempo, he might get out of ideas. Although it’s guaranteed that everybody is going to wear one of these fun t-shirts or sexy MOSCHINO underwear. Plus, thumbs up for Charlotte Free as a model!

Romance. Lanvin Resort’15

June 15, 2014June 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

I observed that I usually prefer the pre-collections at Lanvin rather than the runway shows. Why? I love their mood! The resort for 2015 is just the real Lanvin thing- very Parisienne, non-chalant and romantic. The model Jamie Bochert matches perfectly to the slightly bohemique style of the pieces! Full of beige, red, brown and black, we had a lot of foulards, embroideries and fabulously decorated dresses and pants. Alber Elbaz made me again fall in true French love!