Prabal Gurung said he approached his striking new Resort collection as if it was a “one-stop shop from morning to evening.” The idea, he explained, was prompted by all the traveling he’s been doing to trunk shows in places as far-flung as Singapore and Toronto. It’s smart business to listen to customers’ needs, but if Gurung embraced practicality, he didn’t abandon his creative side.
After the first season at Hugo Boss, the New York based designer Jason Wu is really into German minimalism this time. His chalky, minty and very pastel colour palette made this Resort collection very cold but at the same time elegant and chic. The seductive zip skirts, white trousers and collar blouses make it as usually lady-like in case of Wu- but now, in more fresher way!
The new collection by Rag & Bone for Resort’15 was all about fine, labour clothing. Texture was key, in other words, as was the emphasis on looks that could transition from season to season. The signature piece may have been the waistband-free A-line shorts, done in leather or lightweight suiting fabric, which had the chillaxed air of skate shorts but didn’t ape that look exactly. The sweatshirts were worn slouchy on white cotton shirts, while over-sized leopard printed dresses were style with super cool white sneakers and socks. “Do you‘resort’?” Wainwright and partner David Neville are keenly attuned to their customer’s lifestyle, and they make it their business not to offer her fantasies but to elevate her reality.
Showing his collection in an old Manhattan townhouse, it’s visible that Marc is somewhere between relax and parting. His AW14 was so relaxed and the Resort’15 is a total contrast- the models like Waleska Gorczevski or Esmeralda Reynolds presented printed, colourful party dresses full of sexy embroideries and Victoriana flowers. We could also notice the ethernal sequined mini-skirt a la Dolly Parton and the 60’s inspired patterns of flowers and other Marc-like things.”People getting dressed up, going out. Happy, lively,” offered Jacobs’ design director, Joseph Carter, when he was asked for a few words backstage. In other words, thanks to the sparkle and bliss, Marc Jacobs got our New Year Eve dresses all sorted up. Personally, I love this collection… as usual in case of MJ (and these fur cuties got me!).
Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin are interested in women. Their New York based label is all about simplicity of clothing and confident, cosmopolitan, polished yet unfussy in their sense style. Their Resort 2015 collection was just it! The models looked gorgeous in every dress and every skirt. The prints were calm but eye catchy. And the colours were perfect for Spring in New York… I see everything here worn at a Central Park stroll. Although it’s all very mature, these clothes are going to look really good on a 20 and up! Tome, I feel a new know how brand is forming… More on http://tomenyc.com
Design & Culture by Ed 