What a collection! Erdem Moralıoğlu‘s resort 2019 collection is about chic royalty at its best. So, what an Erdem woman might want to take from this season? Brocade bustier dress with detachable balloon sleeves (and that pearl necklace), for sure. All those chiffon pieces and feather moments. Not forgetting about the loveliest floral gowns with velvet inserts. Well, I guess the contemporary Marie Antoinette would take it all, without a second thought!
It’s the second season of Salvatore Ferragamo‘s re-invention for Paul Andrew and Guillaume Meilland. The two designers managed to wipe off the dust of the Italian house already back in their brilliant debut collection. Now, the question is – will they thrive? And, will the client return to Ferragamo after the year of oblivion? Well, since Phoebe Philo exited Céline and the customer who wants that kind of luxury won’t stay for Hedi Slimane, they can turn to Andrew and Meilland (as well as to Lemaire and Hermes, but why not give a try to an Italian brand?). Knitwear is offered in the most high quality yarns, meanwhile shirting looks, well, like tailorship perfection. Archival prints were used for plissé silk, and the label’s signature Gancio motif was woven on canvas jacquard. Smart integrity between the past, and now. But, wait – the shoes! That’s Paul’s job mainly. Those burgundy boots in eel skin are gorgeous. “The shoes really dictate a lot at Ferragamo; here they have their own special voice” is how he summed up the footwear line. I think there’s bright future for Ferragamo with these guys.
The fashion week calendar gets blurrier and blurrier with designers like Rosie Assoulin, who has presented her resort 2019 and spring-summer 2019 as one, fluent collection, long ahead of the usual schedule. The designer is planning to make two collections a year, keeping it at her pace – so, forget any ‘see now, buy now’ strategies here, or other confusing business tricks. For Assoulin, it’s the time that matters: to design and to produce her garments. And that’s quite visible, when you take a moment to look at the clothes.
For instance, a coat hand-painted with watercolours; intricately beaded midi-skirts. Note the pin-striped suits. As Vogue reports, “instead of engineering a print, each pinstripe was actually a space-dyed yarn that almost shimmered”. Indeed, not that simple as it seems. Not forgetting about the fantastic jug bags, one of Rosie’s well-known signatures among the New Yorkers. This time they come in even bolder colours. What makes Rosie Assoulin’s brand so distinctive is the joy and humour that are inseparable from the clothes. And what else could highlight that this season? The presentation’s venue, Raquel’s Dream House. It’s Raquel Cayre’s space, where the design lover exhibits some of the most iconic pieces – Masanori Umeda’s Tawaraya ring sits, Shiro Kuramata’s famously fragile Glass Chair and Ettore Sottsass’s Ultrafragola mirror, to name a few. A set that matches Assoulin’s arty gowns, skirts and outerwear just perfectly.
Angela Missoni can make her Missoni collection as sweet as the Spicchi de Arance e Pompelmo from the newly published The Missoni Family Cookbook. By that, I mean the softness of knits and a spectrum of pastel colours that appeared in the line-up. Missoni is more than fashion; it’s a lifestyle that’s about love, family, friendship, celebration – all somewhere situated in a very Italian villa. Light, plissé dresses in knitted Lurex and palazzo pants (note that delicate transparency) suggested fresh airiness, while the abstract floral prints and sea-shell jewellery brought on even more charm. Yet still, the collection feels dynamic, with that leading, signature “Put Together Look”, where different patterns, colours and textures are gracefully matched up. Plus, Bibi Cornejo Borthwick’s photography and Vanessa Reid’s styling fit contemporary Missoni’s image very, very well.