Archetypes. Alaïa Resort 2026

November 22, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

You know, I’m rather on the fence about Pieter Mulier’s Alaïa. The brand’s contemporary creative director has a tendency to cover women in overworked constructions – something Azzedine himself avoided at all costs in his masterful work. Mulier did exactly that with the Gaudí-esque forms and alien-like tubes in his autumn collection, but for spring he shifted toward a more “less is more” approach.

The resort 2026 collection – his first “official” pre-collection, titled “Archetypes” and conceived as a more accessible entry into the Alaïa wardrobe – lands somewhere between these two extremes. There are moments of uplifting lightness, like a truly fabulous vivid-pink, long double-satin bias-cut dress that is “very easy to look at, extremely difficult to make.” There’s also an architectural, high-necked tiger-print coat that’s pure chic. But then come the heavy-looking jackets with armadillo hoods and over-styled layering that somewhat disturb the sense of zen. Meanwhile, the shearling jacket with a peplum recalls Phoebe Philo’s instantly sold-out piece from last season (not the first time Mulier has been seen taking notes from other designers).

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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High & Low. Saint Laurent Resort 2026

November 19, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

In between the ’80s-heavy color-block coat-dresses of the winter collection and the couture-inspired maxi gowns crafted in technical nylon for summer, Anthony Vaccarello introduces a cool-looking, smooth transition: a Saint Laurent resort line-up that revolves around the idea of combining – or rather, clashing – a lace-trimmed slip dress with an oversized track top. High meets low. Boudoir meets athleisure. Paris meets Los Angeles. The collection’s radiant color palette – salmon pink, cherry red, emerald green, and electric blue – reads like a visual dose of vitamin C, one that makes you pray for autumn’s grayness to give instant way to spring.

ED’s SELECTION:

SAINT LAURENT Belted Leather Jacket

SAINT LAURENT Ruched Floral-print Tulle Mini Dress

SAINT LAURENT Amalia Patent-leather Slingback Pumps

Yves Saint Laurent Vintage Gold-plated Clip Earrings

SAINT LAURENT Grain De Poudre Skirt

SAINT LAURENT Pussy-bow Checked Cotton-blend Shirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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It’s A Dance. Tom Ford Resort 2026

November 16, 2025November 16, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Haider Ackermann likes to compare his creative endeavor at Tom Ford to a dance. In his hands, it can be slow and sensual in one moment, then electric and seductive in the next. His sesort 2026 collection – an effortless bridge between his brilliant debut and an even stronger sophomore offering – shows just how fluently Ackermann speaks Ford’s design vocabulary.

In his press notes, the designer described the “unremitting verticality” of his vision for Tom Ford’s “beautiful creatures,” a concept rendered sublimely through masterfully elongated silhouettes, punctuated by bold color accents (green! blue! pink!) and razor-sharp shoulders. The collection – now arriving in stores – also introduces Ackermann’s take on day-ready pajama suits, for both him and her, that feel almost too good to be true.

If this collection were a dance, it would land somewhere between Ralph Fiennes’s unpredictable moves in “A Bigger Splash” and the magnetic elegance of Cyd Charisse and Gene Kelly in the “Broadway Melody Ballet” sequence. Delightful.

ED’s SELECTION:

TOM FORD Double-breasted Cotton And Silk-blend Hammered-satin Blazer

TOM FORD Eva D’orsay Satin Pumps

TOM FORD Belted Draped Silk-satin Maxi Skirt

TOM FORD Stretch-silk Georgette Gown

TOM FORD Leather Shirt – Blue

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Surplus. ERL Resort 2026

November 4, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Of course, if you’ve just watched Kathryn Bigelow’s “House on Dynamite“, looking at ERL’s soldiers might make you feel somewhat uneasy. The fear of nuclear war is, well, omnipresent. But Eli Russell Linnetz’s take on army boys carries the attitude of the infamous 2007 Vogue Italia cover and editorial shot by Steven Meisel, where Agyness Deyn and a troop of golden-retriever-looking fighters undergo a kind of sexual awakening.

Linnetz titled hi resort 2026 collection “Surplus“, referencing the surplus store as a constant presence in “a deep corner of American consciousness.” The designer repurposed surplus stock – pieces he says he’s been collecting for years – and juxtaposed them with his more luxurious interpretations. Think glorious patchworked parkas mixed with camouflage separates, chunky Donegal sweaters, and cool-looking cargos in overdyed fabrics.

The clothes have a lived-in quality – and looking at the lookbook, photographed in Eli Russell’s signature theatrical manner – you can almost smell the sweat and adrenaline that these garments are flavored with.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Part Of Me. JW Anderson Resort 2026

August 1, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Come September, an utterly new iteration of JW Anderson will materialize. With a thoroughly-considered decision of stopping runway shows and fully rebrand brick-and-mortar shops (and open new ones across Milan, New York and London), Jonathan Anderson is about to revolutionize the way we think about fashion brands. “It’s going to be about: this is how I live. This is my world, what I collect, that’s part of me.” The designer – who’s now leading Dior – has created, as he likes to call it, a “blunt” environment where his own clothes – and others that are locally sourced – will sit alongside a plethora of things such as traditional Irish tea-towels, a Welsh blanket, hand-crafted stick chairs, a tiny still life by Gwen John, a set of restored vintage garden tools (instant must-have!), and even a selection of crotcheted, very British bird keyring charms. The stores will be restocked according to demand, and will of course offer all-time JW Anderson classics: argyle knits, cargo pants, witty denim, cheeky accessories. They are modeled in the latest lookbook by creatives the designer collaborates with and admires a lot: Luca Guadagnino, Bella Freud, Anthea Hamilton, Ben Wishaw and Pol Anglada, to name just a few. Anderson’s brave, bold, new IRL shop strategy will hopefully start a new wave of love and appreciation of brick-and-mortar experiences. Remember concept stores? They might be back very soon.