French-Extreme. Saint Laurent SS26

While watching the Saint Laurent livestream and seeing all the celebrities arrive, I couldn’t help but wonder: are they real? Do they walk on the same earth we mortals do? Those girls and boys feel so distant – so distanced. And that’s exactly how Anthony Vaccarello narrates his Saint Laurent. The outdoor show, staged against the Eiffel Tower and awash with white hydrangeas, could not have been more pompous or otherworldly – but that’s its appeal. As in Vaccarello’s recent collections, this one revisited themes from Saint Laurent’s archives, repeated and perfected over and over again to near death. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:

SAINT LAURENT Tallulah Patent-leather Wedge Sandals


SAINT LAURENT Leather Jacket


SAINT LAURENT Leather Skirt


SAINT LAURENT Draped Wool-jersey Mini Dress

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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NET-A-PORTER Limited

Resort’s LOOSE!

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As the Resort 2014 approaches in huge steps to on-line stores and boutiques, it’s the best time to have a first peek at what will be the hottest of all. Definitely, this Resort season feels very simple and minimalistic- lots of loose trousers, straight cutted jackets and comfortable trenches are visible in the look-books. Certainly the most beautiful collections are by Derek Lam, Givenchy and Celine- they the ones that will be best sellers this time. Remembering about the Spring spirit, give your total look a strong dose of pink- just like at Alexander Wang and Kenzo! And if thinking of accessories… certainly, again, Celine rules, with it’s beige leather birkenstocks and ne cabas bags! So, lets forget of Winter, and unpatiently wait on Spring!

1. Derek Lam, Givenchy, 2. Kenzo, Alexander Wang, 10 Crosby by Derek Lam, Proenza Schouler, shoes by Givenchy, 3. Chloe, J.W. Anderson, Celine, 4. Christopher Kane, Balenciaga, Celine, 5. Erdem, 10 Crosby by Derek Lam

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Stomping Feet

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This season is definetly theirs. Nothing will stop them this Winter, even Tom Ford’s fairy-tale thigh high boots with hand made embroideries. Well, Tom Ford would throw up if he would heard that the famous club footed giant clobs with rubber soles would be gesting his runway. But still the inner beauty soul of mine still loves Tom’s creation… but this is not the thing. Fashion giants like Prada, Stella McCartney and Jil Sander together with a plague of young british designers are just crazy about them. Masculine inspired shoes, so called boots nowadays have lots of not too kind nicknames- mammonthly elevatedm tractor tread shoes. But why do women love them. Easy answear- they are simply ugly. Sounds strange, but yes dear female readers, there is now a new fashion era of ugliness- from wearing furkenstocks on feet to mixing prints and colours, that in the past would not even make it in the cheapest pubs. But now they are the ones that are most photographed on street styles and in magazine editorials! Boots are now the most WANTED on women’s wishlist. The next point of their amazingness is their comfortable state (no heels, wedges, mid heels, killer heels, strange ropes etc.) and practically! Now you shall were it everywhere! Even on a MET Gala during the Punk trend. Yes. Punk. Punk also made boots for women more popular. Punk was a controversy. Punks wore boots everywhere. “Normal” people in times of Punk massive attack were saying that it’s so disgusting… And now it’s the most worn shoe for almost ten seasons.

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But this season is the most  Punk’d as you can see, filtering magazines and Instagram. So no wonder why boots are killing the high heels that are just so last season! While I pretty like this shoe trend, it feels kind of rebellious and free spirited. In these shoes you will conquer your shoes. As Stella McCartney says “We’re allowed to have inner strenght and it takes that to wear those shoes”. Her collection was like a gender mix- a man shirt that was very long, making it a dress, feels a bit Marc Jacobs, but on women looks great. Laces mixed with smokings looked very modern and surely gives a inner power to every wearing it fashionista. But, these strange shoes might be very romantic, as says Miuccia Prada. True. They looked very sexy accompanied with the dresses and wet hair of models… But what makes a bit suprised, that mostly woman used this “forbidden” trend. Well, except Hedi Slimane and Karl Lagerfeld. But that’s a totally other story to tell. I mean, they are also boots, but boots designed by men this season are beautiful- full of decorations, chains. As I said on the beginning, giving example of Tom Ford, men don’t really like seeing women in these chuncky shoes. It’s better when it is high, hurty and sexy!

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London designers are just in love with them. Erdem, Christopher Kane, J.W. Anderson. All of them had boots in their collections. BUT. At Kane, the Chelsea boots were covered with feathers (not so ugly then), at Erdem with crystals (might say even beautiful, and J.W. Anderson’s were so ugly, they were simply beautiful. Yes this is a strange world of Anderson. But why mostly London designers used this type of footwear? Cheaper to make? More commercial? Or just a case of inpiration? In fact, you can wear boots everytime and everwhere. They will make it great with a slim dress or with a mohair striped SL sweater and leather leggins. Or even with a Louis Vuitton boudoir inspired lace dress (that would be a cool hard core on street style in Paris!). In other words, the Wrong Shoes as many people call, are the new IT shoes of the season, and maybe of the decade.

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HC: Ulyana Sergeenko AW13

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Ulyana Sergeenko third Haute Couture show was a third disappointment. Sorry, but for me she is not a designer, but a wife of a rich guy in Russia that decided one day to be a fashion designer. This is kind of sad because some people think that Ulyana in reality is an ultra talented designer… This season was a plunder in Sergeenko’s Grandma wardrobe- with ugly, velvet, black dresses, fur coats and flower embroideries that looks totally the same as last winter. It’s all a mirror view of the designer style- everybody seems to know from street style pics, that Sergeenko loves all these ball gowns and everything that looks uncomfortable and purely expensive.
Well, there were FEW looks I enjoyed, but it felt deja vu to me- the fur cape with flower embroideries on top is beautiful, but it’s a copy of Haute Couture AW12. There is nothing new in this collection, I would say there is even less than it was in past. And these gorsets… They look so bad! The clothes are like if a old grammy from Russian village would put on her old dresses made from same fabrics but sold cheaper in the past, and then went to Paris, saying that it’s a new trend.

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Men’s: Mature Cool. Kenzo SS14

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I was a little bit disappointed with the new Kenzo collection for men. The entrance was superb- a fruit mosaic on the floor, market stalls with Kenzo fresh juices and so on- in other words colours. But that was just the opposite to the clothes that were presented in a huge hall with tribunes around. Models walked on a circular platform very close to the front row, and then went up the stairs on the highest “stage” of this huge chamber, standing, and presenting the cool jackets, bags and many more. It’s all sounds great, but the collection unfortunately wasn’t so good.
The first look gave first impression- boring elegant sportswear. In blue colours. Then it was all grey with some hind of confetti print. Then red phase with black elements on the tshirts. It’s all boring, but cool and kind if nice. There were few cool looks, but last season was much better. Unfortunately, that wasn’t this what I was expecting. Not youthful and full of colourful, but MATURE TO DEATH. And now we won’t wear the Kenzo Tigers but Kenzo Tsunamis.

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