Hope. Rick Owens SS18

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Rick Owens‘s wife – the magical Michele Lamy – was laughing wildly in the show’s soundtrack. The fountains of Palais de Tokyo’s yard blasted, sparkling water on the guests (who were given black plastic rain coats). The models wore massive, cocoon-like garments (Comme Des Garçons mood) and huge fanny packs. As far as Owens is concerned with the climate changes, and has moved that global issue in his previous collections, there was a disturbing impression: those were the climate refugees in a dystopian world, where nature takes a revenge. But is the story behind the spring-summer 2018 collection so drastic? As it appeared, not entirely. “It’s a show about hope“, the designer said. The sculptural pieces were more like an armour of rejection to our world’s threats, while layered up dresses and fluid-in-motion tops spoke about human mobility. As equally complex as Rei Kawakubo’s Comme Des Garçons, Rick’s collections are always food for thought. 

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Heroic. Rick Owens SS18

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Heroic garments need exposure – that’s why Rick Owens took his models to an elevated runway, which spanned above a Parisian courtyard. Although the city was going through a heat wave that day, Owens sent a line of voluminous trousers and fluid-like tank-tops. Some of the guys carried huge, cuboid pouches, while others wore lengthy coats. As usual, it was all about the silhouette: the designer is known for his unique skills in draping and sculpting clothes. Finding beauty in the odd counts to Owens, whether he means diverse model casting or creating his own avantgarde. “I’m seeing this kind of normality in the world that’s being lionised and deified and personally that is my personally refrain in life, ‘I need a freak’. I need somebody to make effort and it needs to be rare and not banal and not prosaic or conventional,” he told Dazed. Meaningful.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop from Maïmouna Guerresi’s ‘The Giants’ series).