Rick Owens
Think BIG for Fall
Comme des Garcons AW14
“Fashion is reactionary,” said Valerie Steele, the director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Sensibly, she explained that fashion is moving away from “a close-to-the-body moment.” “It’s the pendulum effect,” she said. “If it’s long, it gets short, and if it’s short, it gets long.” Fashion changes a lot just like proportions. This fall, it’s all about a large coat with too long sleeves and over-sized shoulders. Just like the one at CdG by Rei Kawabuko, whose boundary-fight with stereotypical beauty is just on it’s place this season. I really loved what Prada had in it’s offer- 70’s masculine jackets. Looked elegant, but very on the go. And of course, lets not forget about VFiles Melitta Baumeister, who loves dressing Rihanna in white fur stoles and large, leather jackets! Her new season collection is amazingly cool. in a very BIG way.
Rick Owens AW14
Melitta Baumeister AW14
Viktor & Rolf 1999 Haute Couture
Jonathan Saunders AW14
Prada AW14
AW14 Dutch Twist
Rick Owens
It isn’t a something new that fashion is constantly being inspired with art. But oppositely to SS14, which was full of pop-art, the AW14 season was much more darker and… Dutch? Surely, for Rick Owens and Maison Martin Margiela, 15th and 16th century art from the Netherlands was the focus point. Just like in the Dutch portraits, Rick had his models wear in particular the head pieces that reminded me of the Flemish art. The positioning of the models and the heavy, unadorned nature of clothing looked elegant and very nun-like!
Hans Holbein the Younger (1498-1543), Detail Darmstadt Madonna, 1528
Rick Owens
Master of the 1540s (Netherlandish artist, fl 1541-1551), Portrait of a Woman, 1541
Maison Martin Margiela
Vlaenderbergh, Hans Memling
Maison Martin Margiela
What’s Hot (15.3.14)
Aesthetics. Rick Owens AW14
In his aesthetically world of dark chaos and comfortable, timeless pieces, Rick Owens seem to ignore all the rules of model line and beauty. Forget skinny girls and “pretty” faces. The AW14 was all about Parisian women who are Rick’s friends- they don’t have anything to do with fashion. And they wore the new clothes on the runway, that were really cool, in their own, everyday way. The clothes maybe weren’t unexpected – although these nun bonnets were terrible- but still, they felt Rick. What do you think of this kind of diversity in fashion? I am totally for ‘yes’.
Design & Culture by Ed 