American Paris. Anthony Vaccarello AW15

March 4, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Anthony went to LA and thought it’s right to put Americana into the latest collection. Unfortunately, this collection reminds me of Rodarte’s trashy sequined mini-dresses or Saint Lauren’t rock & roll opulence rather than Vaccarello’s cool allure. The leather dresses were appliqued with metal stars and studs. Except black, we could also spot suede. But in reality, not only this collection didn’t bring anything new – it was a perfect cliche. Anthony, please let Hedi Slimane do the American-inspired thing in Paris. Hopefully, the cliche mood won’t stay for long in here.

Men’s: Psych Rock. Saint Laurent SS15

June 30, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Hedi Slimane of Saint Laurent always keeps his own style in his designs. And not many designer do that nowadays. The men’s SS15 entitled Psych Rock was all about Hedi’s love to rock & roll. Little Bugle Boy jacket, poncho, sheepskin vest, army surplus, embroidered jeans, amulets, snakeskin boots, garage band—rather than an unleashing of the beast of psych rock. The collection had something of beautiful gypsy escape (all these jewels) vibe, the indie rock chic and itty-bitty rodeo style (the soundtrack is a contribution from an obscure West Coast sixties-revivalist band, the wide-hatted Mystic Braves were an aural and visual complement to the new collection). I really enjoyed the whole show (and women’s was so, so good. Natalie Westling and her hot red hair combined with a black maxi dress and star sequined boots are dreamy) and I am happy we’ve got Hedi at Saint Laurent. By the way, au revoir men’s PFW for SS15!

UNDERCOVER

November 14, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

UNDERCOVER is the moments hottest underground fashion label that really has it’s punk rebel style being recognized world-wide! Jun Takahashi, the designer of this Paris based and made in Japan label, is definitely the male Rei Kawabuko of fashion. Having his own space at Dover Street Market in London and Kinza, his dark, punk and rebellious clothing is for her and him. The SS14 collection for women was full of signs (SNUG, SILENCE YOURSELF) with a sexy leather twist. The menswear too is full of leather gloves and cool pieces. While dicovering UNDERCOVER, I was impressed with the first collections by Takahashi- black masks, chains, rock’n’roll and metallica were all present in one outfit. UNDERCOVER is not so flossy as KTZ, and I totally like it. Jun Takahashi creates a label with it’s own, unique style! And by the way… I have a feeling he would be great at Jil Sander.

Rock ‘n Chic. Saint Laurent SS14

October 1, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

That was the third Saint Laurent fashion show under the wings of Hedi Slimane, and it was… the best! I am still blown up after this collection that was presented in Grand Palais in Paris yesterday. On the entry, there was a big, LED lights installation that reminded of some abstract piece of art. And then the show begun of course with… Edie Campbell, with gloomy hairstyle and eye make-up. She wore a beautiful V-neck dress in black colour. Sexy and chic. Then the classical Yves Saint Laurent Le Smoking shown in a much more casual way. The collection wasn’t punk itself- it was very chic and elegant, but had a rock ‘n roll twist too. Stripes t-shirts, sequined jackets, sharp hair-cuts, over-large sleeves and lips/fire print on few mini dresses. Hedi definitely got mad with all these grunge boots from Winter, but certainly he did fell in love with socks under stilettos… I think this is one of the coolest trend, while most people are totally on NO when they see this. But in the Saint Laurent edition, it simply looked great. The SS14 collection by Saint laurent was definitely one of my favourite this season!

Rock It. Haider Ackermann SS14

September 28, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

Haider Ackermann showed his darker side in the SS14 collection is Paris. The seriously rock & roll aesthetics that were mixed with classical Haider fabrics and forms. I loved the body exposure in that collection and colour use! So David Bowie and Vogue Paris at the same time! It felt fresh but still real for this designer- all these dresses and metallic colours beautifull compnated with sexy shorts and transparent tops. One of the best collections to date from Mr. Ackermann!