“Slouchy silhouettes touching the earth” – this is how the spring-summer 2020 clothes were described in Rodebjer‘s show-note. I would also add they create a perfect wardrobe for a modern-day jet-set woman, who enjoys her weekends were the sun is out – Marrakech, Lisbon, Malibu. Carin Rodebjer showed her designs on a runway for the first time in several seasons. It was a reminder that her clothes – typically textural, usually fluid, and always balanced between practical and adventurous – look best in motion. The floor-sweeping fringes and draped dresses shades of ochre and curcuma are my highlights. One can’t help noticing some old Céline inspirations, which is actually good. Starving Philophiles, please see Rodebjer next season.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Carin Rodebjer‘s key silhouettes had a pajama-like effortlessness—wraparound skirts, kimono-esque jackets and dresses, hearty knits. But the shapes were just tidy enough to keep the look on fleek – feel Rodebjer‘s wide-leg trousers in lightweight silk jacquard, which were slouchy but not slack. Bold stripes and wallpaper floral prints, meanwhile, gave the collection a graphic shake. These clothes were neither basics nor “basic.” And thanks to Rodebjer’s amazing textile usage, the collection had something artistic about it. These clothes would smoothly work in an art studio and on a voyage.
Astrology was the keyword for Carin Rodebjer while designing the AW15. Stars and planets, the clothes reminded us about astronauts, aliens and women which step on the ground but have their hands up in the sky. Over-sized sweatpants, sheer dresses printed with out-of-this world patterns and moon-grey tops were all shown, styled with sneakers. All of that seems to be a bit messy. Definitely, Rodebjer had much better seasons – this one is too shallow. I love when Rodebjer brings different topics and makes the viewer think and memorise – the label’s SS15 was a masterpiece. This time, I didn’t get that feeling.
December 20: New York Fashion Week was never so full of female designers- Rachel Comey, Mara Hoffman and Carin Rodebjer are just few examples. This means, that real women want to design for real women! Designer guys, you’ve earned new girls on the block… Rachel Comey, Mara Hoffman, Rodebjer, all SS15.