Roland Mouret

Last autumn’s news of Roland Mouret‘s collapse into administration was yet another reality check for the fashion industry: the consequences of global pandemic, from inflation to dynamically changing customer patterns, have no mercy. But with a surprising resort 2023 presence, it seems that the London-based designer’s label is rising from the ashes. For his first offering under newly-formed umbrella company SP Collection (owner of Self Portrait), Mouret brought forth fresh energy, while acknowledging his brand’s heritage. “To exist in the present, you must understand your own history,” said the designer at a showroom set-up in London’s Claridge’s hotel. “Now, it’s time to modernize our signatures to reflect how people want to dress today.” I was never really a fan of Mouret’s fashion – his runway collections felt overworked, the brand’s visual communication lacked freshness and kick. In his return collection, the designer streamlines his offering, presenting the most sublime silhouettes in his repertoire. And, believe it or not, the echoes of his signature “Galaxy” dress still do the work in 2022. Floor-length dresses range from rib-knit cashmere with fluted skirts in lilac, to iridescent micro-sequin gowns in crimson and emerald. Midi and mini-dresses are gently nipped at the waist with ruched and cut-out details. The tailoring is particularly exemplary, with two-piece wool suits in jet black, camel, and magenta featuring exaggerated shoulders and matching straight-cut and flared pants. As a designer who’s attained distinction with his trademark drape and construction, the garments play to his strengths yet feel new with their off-kilter-ness. “We’ve also updated our price points for the contemporary consumer market,” says Mouret. “It was a decision that made perfect sense for where we’re headed.” It seems that the brand is now branching out into the world of party-girl dressing, in addition to still being a go-to for workwear and cocktail attire. Looking forward to see more of the new Roland Mouret brand.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Definitely, November is the right time to get to know closer the hottest trends from SS14 runways. In this exclusive guide to the new season, you will find lots of inspirations, new designers and the most coolest styles and looks of Summer 2014. From the gold skirts to net tops, and from tribal inspirations to modern art, there is no way to miss this amazing season!

GOLD RUSH- the golden polished skirts and dresses are definitely not only classics of Summer wardrobe, but also a must have this season. Proenza Schouler, Dries Van Noten, Haider Ackermann, Creatures of The Wind, Altuzarra.

RED WINE- The colour of burgundy seems to be a pretty heavy colour for Summer- but no worries, Marc Jacobs and Margiela made it top listers, so why not give it a try? Maison Martin Margiela, Givenchy, Proenza Schouler, Marc Jacobs.

TRIBE ATTACK- Designers of SS14 were really inspired with African and South American tribes. Alexander McQueen show took us to a futuristic Masai village, were women wear feathers, reds and helmets; Valentino however visited South American major places like Incan and Aztec empires, plus having a peek at Mexico and Guatemala… Valentino, Givenchy, Alexander McQueen, Junya Watanabe.

ART_ART_ART- While all the major art fairs are taking place, the Summer 2014 season is totally covered with Jeff Koons, Picasso and Damien Hirst. Chanel’s cute dresses with paint prints are simply adorable. And Prada? Even more artsy than ever! Chanel, Prabal Gurung, Celine, Prada, Comme des Garcons.

BIKER GIRL- As punk and grunge was hottest last Winter, now it’s all about the biker jacket- looking good with everything. Style your like at Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton! Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Jean Paul Gaultier.

THINK PINK- Pink, the Summer classic. Do I have to mention something more? Alexander Wang, Balmain, Giles, Isabel Marant, Jacquemus.

FLOWER POWER- “Flowers… how unusual for Summer.” Definitely it is pretty normal for SS, but… Christopher Kane took us to the new level of flower-power. Lets have a peek at an usual boring Biology book, and then at Chris SS14 collection. Love it! Christopher Kane, Dior, Marni, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana.

TROPICAL- Well, don’t mix Tropical rain forests with Parisian roses. The tropical trend is more about printed Jumsuits and trousers- just like at Hermes, where Christophe Lemaire took us to a beautiful orangerie… Marc Jacobs, Hermes, No.21, Mary Katrantzou

WHITE ON WHITE- White this season is very pure and fresh. Beautiful sportwear from Balenciaga and Erdem’s casuality… is so white! Calvin Klein, Balenciaga, Simone Rocha, Erdem.

NET FORCE- Net tops are certainly comfortable and air-permeable. They are mix of sporty chic with elegance… and will look good only without underwear. Just like at Alexander Wang, who styled it with high trousers and socks! Gucci, Alexander Wang, Dior, Anthony Vaccarello.

IN THE GYM- Loose it all up because this Summer we’re going out for some jogging! And the best who knows what is best for daily sport, are New Yorkers- Victoria Beckham and Rag & Bone knows how to do a good warm up! Rag & Bone, Victoria Beckham, Jonathan Saunder, Rick Owens, Alexander Wang.

PICNIC PARTY- Squares, checks, polka dots, spirals… we love all of them. Rodarte, Roland Mouret, Balmain, Derek Lam, Sportmax, 3.1. Philip Lim.

SHINE BRIGHT- Shine like a shooting star in one of the hottest looks of the fashion month- Jason Wu, Fendi, Lanvin… The shiny trend is sexy and great for evenings. Or, for a Summer blast at the beach! Jason Wu, Fendi, Lanvin, Gucci, Christopher Kane, Saint Laurent.

MARINE CHIC- Forget stripes while thinking of marine chic. It’s all about ecology and safety these days, so leave your hands in Kenzo’s and Julien David’s hands. This specific trend gives is a little reminder of beach paradise… That’s why we love it! Acne, Kenzo, Julien David, Olympia Le-Tan.