Cheerful Vibrance. Rosie Assoulin AW22

Rosie Assoulin‘s autumn-winter 2022 collection radiates with cheerful vibrance and off-kilter charm. The new season offering is driven by experimental silhouettes and idiosyncratic details that make the designer’s clothes always so compelling. The biggest surprise is the play with big hips, inspired by 19th century panniers. But in case of Assoulin, such fashion statements never feel “too” evening or “too” red carpet – those are charismatic garments for a bold personality that loves the process of dressing up on the daily basis. What makes the New York-based designer stand out is her ability to transform everyday life observations into fashion. The opening look, in powder blue moire accented by caramel-colored gloves, is a crop top with a jutting ruffle inspired by the silicone bib Assoulin’s young daughter wears while eating. The skirt mirrors the top’s 3-D shape, but while the latter feels futuristic, the former is historical. Still, they work together, the sweeping fabric with the sculptural accents. The folkish patterns feel lively and naive in a good way: nature-inspired watercolor prints run throughout the collection, and on the vegan shearling coats (obsessed!) they look straight out of the 1970s. In our turbulent and highly disturbing times, the simple message behind the top with an oval front depicting a blossoming tree and its roots speaks volumes. The tree’s symbolism of constant evolution was crucial to Assoulin’s conception of the collection. P.S. Pay attention to the accessories: the label’s signature jug hand-bags are back!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

NET-A-PORTER Limited

Dancing Silhouettes. Rosie Assoulin Pre-Fall 2022

Dancing and the beauty of the body in motion definitely had to be on Rosie Assoulin‘s mind for pre-fall 2022. The pleated celery green ensemble looks even more phenomenal when you’re twirling in it, while the watercolour blue ball-skirt in plaid just begs to dance the night away. These ultra-feminine silhouettes feel so light and expressive, but are far from non-sense. Actually, this collection is a harmonious balance of the dramatic and functional. Even though she’s known primarily as an evening wear expert, Assoulin is a master of convertibility. “I like the idea that a woman might at some point change her mind later on,” the designer said. Examples? The white cloqué henley dress with a black bra insert can be buttoned up or down to show as much of the undergarment as you wish. A plaid blazer comes with removable sleeves that can give the look of opera gloves. Assoulin’s commitment to convertibility and adaptability under all the glamour prevails in her new season designs. “The appetite I have is definitely for exciting graphic, dramatic pieces, but it’s not my life,” she said. “So I have to find how I can bring [ease and drama] together.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.