31 Rue Cambon. Chanel Pre-Fall 2020

Virginie Viard takes Chanel to its (at times clichée) codes. Viard titled her Métiers d’Art show “Paris 31 rue Cambon” for the street where Coco Chanel first set up shop as a milliner in 1910 (“Chanel Modes” at Number 21), and where she later expanded her fashion empire to embrace six additional 18th-century buildings, with her legendary haute couture salons at Number 31. The guests sat inside of Coco’s legendary apartment, XXL-scaled and set up in Grand Palais (there was even the famous mirrored staircase). “I adore the apartment,” Viard said backstage, and she evidently found inspiration in this setting where Chanel retreated from the running of her house and entertained friends. The designer described the collection as “the things we like, a mix of Karl and Chanel—the codes.” Of course, comparing to Lagerfeld’s globe-trotting Méters d’Art fairy-tales – think Moscow, Edinburgh, Texas, the Met in New York – seeing Viard show in Paris felt quite unamusing. Nevertheless, the collection was properly Chanel – elegant, refined, refreshingly minimal, yet far from modesty. The pre-fall collections of Chanel showcase the incredible work of the luxury suppliers of the fashion industry – embroiderers, feather and artificial flower makers, milliners, custom shoemakers – many of which Chanel has acquired to keep them operational and the skills alive. Viard, who directed the Chanel studio under Lagerfeld for decades, has a fine appreciation of what these ateliers are capable of. A bolero jacket with broad feathers overprinted with a shadowy pattern of Chanel’s iconic camellias; a feather blazer worked into a subtle trompe l’oeil plaid; eveningwear kept in the most gorgeous, sorbet ombré colour palette… delightful. Viard proves once again that her Chanel takes a slower approach, one that cherishes the timeless classics and the artisan work. Less Instagram moments, more beauty in the details.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

HC: Sous le Signe du Lion

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Chanel Sous le Signe du Lion is the name of the new Chanel Haute Couture Jewellery that was shown recently in Paris. The collection, comprising 58 big cat-inspired jewels was present on the models that walked the runway in these super cosmic gowns and costumes.
As in all Chanel jewellery, the topic is about Gabrielle Chanel life, her beloved objects and inspirations. So why the Lion was chosen as the motive of AW13 Haute Couture stunning jewels? First of all, Chanel was under star sign of Lion, that may give as a clue. In her Ritz apartment, a golden Lion statue stood that was a present from one of her boyfriends- and as I suppose, she loved it. It was even a main decorations of one of the Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel collections…
In 1920 she travelled to Venice for the first time, at an impressionable moment her life when she was living with the death of Boy Capel, her great love. Being inspired by the waters of the lagoon and entranced by the opulence of Byzantine art, it was in Venice that Gabrielle emerged from her sorrow. The lion is the symbol of St Mark, the patron saint of the city, whose relics rest in the Basilica. The lion is also a symbol of power and the dominance of Venice over the world during the Renaissance – thanks to this, her Rue Cambon apartment was all in lion statues and till now the brooches and buttons of tweed jackets got a symbolic lion on them, under the house of Chanel.

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