In Ode to Marc…

December 18, 2013August 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marc Jacobs, the fellow New York based designer, once upon a time came to the big house of Louis Vuitton. In 1997, the love story began, between this man and the legend- the first collection was presented. The opinions were very various- one said yes, one said faux pas. But throughout the years, Marc Jacobs got really connected with Vuitton. His new grunge visions, inspirations from movies, colourful prints and showgirl attitude were simply created just for this Parisian maison. Best models always walked on his runways- Naomi, Karolina, Anja, Lily and Lara were his. His show venues were always the most buzzed about (the Vuitton hotel, geometrical elevators, train stations…) in town.

For Marc, there was no ugly things at Vuitton. He always made things that looked for us bad, even better. The laundry bags, fur gloves, funny hats, afro, feathers have never been so reorganised as in Marc Jacobs hands. Definitely he is one of the biggest designers of 21st century… for being himself no matter what!

Madonna was tapped twice in Louis Vuitton’s campaign once as a Playboy bunny, and then as an African tribe-lady who was strolling in one of the Parisian caffee. Jacobs has also a long-time friendship with Kate Moss. She appeared in most of his runways, and always looked best in his extravagant creations for women.

Marc Jacobs did lots of collaborations with artists, making house of Louis not only a label, but a art-piece, something much more like an experience. Together with Yayoi Kusama or Takashi Murakami, Marc was surprising as every year with new ideas. He was also very into films- The Night Porter, Noir are just few of the titles that were inspirations for his show venues.

The SS14 collection was his last. He left Vuitton because he felt he needs a change. Now he will concentrate on his own line, Marc Jacobs in New York. The Summer show was opened by naked Edie Campbell, who had only feathers and graffiti on her body! That was a really beautiful Au Revoir from his side. But- good news- Nicolas Ghesquiere, ex creative designer of Balenciaga, will show his new visions for LV in March of 2014… We are all waiting impatiently to see on what he is up to!

Au Revoir. Louis Vuitton SS14

October 2, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

I was crying during the show! That was so, so horrifying that Marc Jacobs is out of Louis Vuitton and that it was his last collection for this luxurious fashion house from Paris. Will somebody be better than this American in Paris? Surely, these were fantastic years with Jacobs- Night Porter, geometrical shapes, boudoir, trains, grunge, African tribal inspirations… These were just few of things that were accompanying us together with Jacobs. It will be very sad for now. But, about the collection now. It was like a mix of everything that Marc did for LV. The show was presented in gothic venue with a dark fountain, victorian buildings and a grand clock that gave a dramatic twist to the collection. Edie Campbell, the muse of Marc Jacobs, opened the collection in an amazing logo body, having chains and a massive feather decoration on head. The next models (a lot of famous faces!) were also dresses in Victorian inspired way- detailed gowns, feather hats and… yes, denim jeans that was a surprise. That looked epic. C’mon, only MJ could mix a Victorian dress with jeans. And that’s why my heart will always have a place for Marc Jacobs collection. Even if they will be a fail.

Weird Party. Marc Jacobs SS14

September 13, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

“It’s more of a weird frat party, Burning Man, shores-of-Gotham City sort of beach scene. It’s a lovely nightmare, or it was for me anyway.” And this, more interestingly: “I didn’t want the cliché of Spring and Summer, I wanted it to be about girls who have no problem coming to work in a Victorian gown and Birkenstocks” said Marc Jacobs about his SS14 collection that with grace closed the New York Fashion Week. The venue was amazing- a huge, huge place, that reminded of something like a beach apocalypse- beach chairs, towels, sand, trees, cigarettes were lying in chaos everywhere. The models (the set of them was really impressive) were for example Cara Delevigne who flew straight from London through Atlantic to walk the runway for Marc and comeback on London Fashion Week… Sky Ferreira (!!!), Edie Campbell, Lily Mcmenamy, Georgia May Jagger and Hanne Gaby were also here. Coming back to collection, Marc Jacobs broke all the rules of the SS14 but in a good way- when everybody were into pure minimalism and pale clothes, MJ slapped it, with a print, embroidery and colour bomb- in a much darker colour than I expected. The clothes were inpired with Victorian era, widow weeds and some 21st century- birkenstocks again rocked the runway just like funny backpack totes! Definitely, that was one of these “weird” parties I would love to come…

Sirens. Jason Wu SS14

September 7, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

For the moment, Jason Wu is my favourite collection from New York Fashion Week! With Karen Elson opening the show and some golde modern lamps around the runway, it all felt so silent and peaceful… The first looks, kept in beige shades, were all about mixing masculine tailorship with feminine cuts. The details on the skirts and dresses looked amazing, and when Karlie Kloss walked the runway in that fairy-tale dress, the only thought that is still is in mind: New York sirens. At the end there were lots of blue and tourquoise sequins that looked beautiful… I should say that Jason Wu nailed it. Really. These clothes would look lovely in a film… maybe something about luxurious yacht sailing, full of champagne and sirens in the water around? Masterpiece!

NYC. Creatures of The Wind SS14

September 5, 2013September 5, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

Surprise, surprise! NYFW just started! Full of energy and fresh designers, the first day was all about… style of New Yorker “too-cool-to-care” style, that is always bright and not banal! S, here I am writing about the first, selected by me collection of New York Fashion Week (last year we started with Alexander Wang!), Creatures of The Wind. This young label designed by duo of “cool” boys is a definition of youth and coolness of NYC people. It is a mix of python prints, colour blocks, flower embroideries, loose trousers and straight forms that look casual and at the same time extremely elegant- but with fantasy. What I seriously loved about this season at CoTW were the fabrics- beautiful, a bit rustical rose embroideries mixed with super modern materials… And the structural skirts looked like art pieces on the models silhouette. This is a extremely cool collection. Can’t wait for more NYFW that is always exciting!