Men’s – Intuition. Sacai AW20

Chitose Abe doesn’t have a formula for her signature hybrids; it’s mainly intuition, she insisted after her autumn-winter 2020 men’s Sacai show (and women’s pre-fall 2020 presentation). It turns out that the man who invented what is arguably the world’s most famous and universal formula, E=mc², was also a big believer in intuition, so Abe made his words her latest motto (and the line-up’s t-shirt that will sell like hot buns). Saca and Einstein is a genius remix. Backstage, she was wearing a T-shirt that read “common sense is the collection of prejudices acquired by age 18” – a quote commonly attributed to him. In her work, Chitose allows an arbitrary inspiration to motivate a shift in layers and volumes or a shakeup in color or pattern; but you don’t get the sense she sets out to radically alter her repertoire. Instead, she experiments, innovates and taps into a topical subject or feeling. This began with women’s looks consisting of suit jackets counterintuitively worn atop military layers that gave way to a fluid skirt and punk-ish platform boots. The men’s outfits included a few Mod-inflected ensembles, sweaters that unzipped up the torso and total looks in pink that corresponded to the romantic spirit of the season. Across both collections, the usual toggling of utility and fluidity played out in animal spots and cosmic-themed bandana sketches by the tattoo artist Dr. Woo. Elsewhere, Abe relied on denim, tweed, tartan, and fleece. A goodie!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Icy Days. Sacai AW17

KIM_0494

While watching Chitose Abe‘s Sacai latest outing, I had no doubts it was a proper, winter collection. While other designers go for mindless slip-dresses and flesh-exposing silhouttes, Abe layered, layered and again, layered. The duvet jacket with fur collar and colour inserts will be a perfect choice for freezier days. What’s more, Chitose shares tips on how to wear a) ankle-lenght dresses under voluminous outerwear and b) style denim midi-skirts when the temperature drops. The designer is a master in terms of textile combinations – I loved the way she mixed warm tweed with sheer, black silk in skirts and jackets. Brilliant!

Slide01Slide06-kopiaSlide02Slide07-kopiaSlide03-kopiaSlide05-kopiaSlide04-kopiaSlide1-kopia