Copenhagen Fashion Week is the best indicator of what’s really hot, whether we’re speaking of Balenciaga’s or Céline’s cross-national influence. I always feel like the local designers make the best edit of current fashion tendencies with their very own, Scandinavian sharpness. Ganni, a Copenhagen girl’s favourite go-to label with over 20 stores across the Scandi-countries, is a great example of that ‘curation’. Ditte Reffstrup, brand’s creative director, sent down a sunny line-up of models (spot Dilone, Frederikke Sofie and Lera Abova) wearing joyous tea-dresses, beach-ready bras and striped knits for breezy spring evenings by the shore. The styling – as always on point – had some striking highlights, like wearing a V-neck mini-dress with extremely big flares underneath or layering a masculine blazer over a midi-skirt AND over matching pants. The show venue, designed in collaboration with the New York-based artist Ana Kras, was another feature that makes Ganni’s spring-summer 2018 collection worth taking a look at.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Copenhagen Fashion Week is a great occasion to observe, how Danes do fashion. This time, I’m in love with Freya Dalsjø‘s spring-summer 2017 collection. Dalsjø has a new take on heritage techniques with an avant-garde approach in her work, deconstructing and exaggerating forms and silhouettes. The collection is quite simple at the first glance, but just have a look at the voluminous coats and parachute dresses. Raw-cut denim and pajama shirts with elongated sleeves make me think of the ‘Vetements factor’, but in a much more clean, Scandinavian version. Dalsjø’s strong point of the collection is the colour palette – lime-green jumpsuits, chocolate-brown skirts and bold-yellow, polished boots. Oh yes, the boots… too good to be true. Always unconventional in model casting, clothes with Freya Dalsjø tag live their life on diverse women with attitude.
From Stockholm to Copenhagen – here are my favourite collections & looks from the Scandinavian AW15!
BACK / Stockholm / Nomadic styling. Shark-tooth print. Chaotic.
Carin Wester / Stockholm / Always on point. Cute hats. Lovely textures. The python bags & shoes.
GANNI / Copenhagen / Bad girl attitude. Biker jackets. Rebellious checks.
Freya Dalsjø / Copenhagen / The fur fun. Culottes. Fluffy feet.
Mark Kenley Domino Tan / Copenhagen / Silhoettes fuse. Embroidery vesus minimal. Sharp but soft.
Carin Wester always has a fresh view on the upcoming season. After last winter’s exaggerated white tights which covered the heels, this time, for SS15, we have a neutral, beautiful collection with natural details. Buckled á la Celine belts, beige jumpsuits, over-sized tank-tops, linen trousers and green water lilies worn as jewellery are just few of the extremely good things that appeared during the show. But what I really love, is the minimal colour palette- it perfectly reflects the natural resources that Scandinavia can offer! This is a seriously good collection (hope the upcoming SS15 will be just like that, too! By the way, start- 4th of September, New York)!
Acne’s AW14 is a collection, which you must understand. The Ikea like printed textiles, psychodelic patterns, wooden “masai-like” plate necklaces, simple, pastel colours… we our somewhere between minimalistic Scandinavia and tribal Africa. Initial and final reaction? A dynamic burst of contrasting prints and unconventionally structured garments, with underlying elements of sportswear innovation. And the unexpected headwear… ann abstract take on the timeless bobble hat, fabricated in duck-egg blue tweed, charcoal fur, caramel felt and rough silvery grey wool. They were worn oversized, leaving half of each models face peeping through. I feel this collection well- one of the strongest by Acne Studios! Photos by Lea Colombo.
So what may Scandinavian fashion offer best at the moment? Not only Elin Kling. Carin Wester’s AW14 is the perfect mix of what a modern woman needs. Simple, lady-like style worn with colourful accessories and… extra large net tights that are covering even the stilettos. Carin Wester is surely the hottest export fashion from Sweden at the moment, with all these amazing mohair sweaters, yellow gloves and beautiful, printed gowns… Watch out for this, people!