Men’s / Ghostly Dreams. Ann Demeulemeester SS19

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Sébastien Meunier’s spring-summer 2019 collection for Ann Demeulemeester could have been a stylishly executed ghost story. With sheer veils flowing down the hats of each model, whether in black or white, the collection had a mysterious, elusive, yet even romantic aura. And, in the end, once you take off the hats and lace gloves, there were clothes to wear everyday. Take that pale pink robe coat or one of those lovely, peasant shirts. Not speaking of the womenswear part, which was plenty of ethereal gowns that felt distinctly Demeulemeester. But then… do we really have to take off all that dramatic headwear? Meunier wanted to convey a sense of dreaminess in his line-up. Why not dress the way you dream? That’s a question to discuss.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / William Blake. Ann Demeulemeester AW18

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Ann Demeulemeester certainly is one of the most poetic designers / labels, and Sébastien Meunier is fully aware of that. A poetry reference, in form of William Blake, could happen to be too literal. But, the result is just the right balance of the house references, poetic ‘way of dressing’ and Meunier’s personal romantic aesthetic. In adopting the British Romantic’s work for Demeulemeester, the designer composed a collection that was more than just clothes. Those were the emotions, as well. Having been most moved by Songs of Innocence and of Experience, he featured the book’s cover on a velvet-ribboned tank top worn with a velvet shirt and skinny, black pants. Loose sleeves, ‘undone’ shearling coats and tasselled belts were another details, noticeable in between the lines, of Sébastien’s smooth direction at the Belgian brand.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / For Robert. Ann Demeulemeester SS18

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Sébastien Meunier‘s spring-summer 2018 collection for Ann Demeulemeester was a clear message: a romantic ode to Robert Mapplethorpe, the late New York-based photographer. While some designers resign from mood-boards and straight-forward references, Meunier decided to fully convey his respect for the artist. In fact, the forever elusive persona of Mapplethorpe has much to do with Demeulemeester’s house-codes and legacy. For instance, the New Yorker of the 70s and 80s had an intense love relationship with Patti Smith – a muse and long-time friend of the brand’s founder. That’s quite a connection. Then, the dark aesthetic of Robert’s work and his personal style. Probably, if you could pick the best Ann Demeulemeester kind of man, then the choice would be clear. The clothes say it all: loosely-fit black trousers; sheer tank-tops; robes with a poet-like feel. But also, crumpled white shirts and lots of charms and pendants. Although Meunier definitely took the softer image of Mapplethorpe (distant from leather kinkiness), the designer succeeded reaching his goal.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop: Robert Mapplethorpe’s photographs).

Melancholy. Ann Demeulemeester AW17

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This is a very romantic girl who mixes all her lace and old garments,” said Sébastien Meunier backstage. “She wants to go and party, but in a different mood.” If melancholic attitude in fashion really exists, then Ann Demeulemeester autumn-winter 2017 collection precisely defines it. Feather inserts and intricately embellished, lace straps; long and flowing dresses styled with veils and leather pants. Very Ann. Meunier is getting better and better with every season, respecting Demeulemeester’s codes and injecting his own, dark aesthetic.

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