Sequin Party. Altuzarra Pre-Fall’16

December 3, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Whoever said that sequins are overrated, did not consider Altuzarra‘s Pre-Fall 2016 collection. The unexpected paillette sequins, which covered the sporty jackets, mesh dresses and fancy midi skirts gave a bold bling-bling moment. Although this New York-based designer is rather known for his minimal aesthetic, the new look-book for next autumn is booming with colour. And an aristocratic, appealingly arty elegance. Lets not forget the subtle polka-dots on pastel blue t-shirt & pants set which takes it back to the label’s feminine codes. This might all sound like a very over-the-top collection, but the effect is totally different – the richly sequined pieces are toned with autumnal shades of brown and grey, making Joseph Altuzarra‘s new season a good choice for those who like a bit of fantasy in their cozy-knitwear-filled wardrobes.

Trompe l’Oeil. MMM SS14

September 28, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

That was one of the best Maison Martin Margiela collection for about three years! It was so Margiela… from unknown reasons, Martin Margiela house got a bit boring for few seasons- there was no amazement. But for Summer 2014 we have a real tromple l’oeil greatness. The collection was mostly kept in bordeaux that is a pretty heavy colour for Summer and it had every look having something… mysterious. The pretty usual sport styled clothing was much more changed into luxury with beautiful sequins, jewels and details, that reminded some kind of French Chateaux treasures. And the shoes were a bit psycho- it had it’s heel cut out in the middle, making it a stiletto with two heels… This is a very Margiela world, that is simply beautiful and not trivial. I love it!

Sirens. Jason Wu SS14

September 7, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

For the moment, Jason Wu is my favourite collection from New York Fashion Week! With Karen Elson opening the show and some golde modern lamps around the runway, it all felt so silent and peaceful… The first looks, kept in beige shades, were all about mixing masculine tailorship with feminine cuts. The details on the skirts and dresses looked amazing, and when Karlie Kloss walked the runway in that fairy-tale dress, the only thought that is still is in mind: New York sirens. At the end there were lots of blue and tourquoise sequins that looked beautiful… I should say that Jason Wu nailed it. Really. These clothes would look lovely in a film… maybe something about luxurious yacht sailing, full of champagne and sirens in the water around? Masterpiece!

Twinset. Marc Jacobs Resort’14

June 4, 2013August 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marc Jacobs suprised! And in a good meaning! Well, I thought, that Marc would do something, you know, full of flowers, colours and everything like everytime for the Resorts. And that’s totally not true! The Resort is like a continuation of SS13 and AW13. Glamorous sequins, 70’s polo shirts and skirts, New York “Great Gatsby” epoque and of course… Stripes! The collection is very mature, totally not sweet and cute as last resort.
Is Marc getting a bit of inspiration from… Prada? Look at the blue stripes- and now see SS11 of Miuccia Prada. The crepe skirts are just like Miu Miu SS13 and use of fur in summer? Plus there are also lots of crystals that were in the 2010 Prada era… As for me that’s totally clear- Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs are life friends so why not? Will we see soon a collab of these two!
And back to the collection- Jaime Bochert looks beautiful here! Just as the collection!

Love Affair. Marc Jacobs AW13

February 15, 2013September 25, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marc Jacobs fall was a melancholic and beautiful love affair. It was inspired with The Film Noir and it was dipped like in a opium perfume. It was lady like and very sexual, delicate but with power. It was glamorous and sensual and it was totally taken out from iconic imagery of Lauren Bacall in her 1940’s finest. Luxury mink stoles, silk pajama’s like tops, pencil skirts, silky trousers, clingy knits, overcoats and wide lapels and T Strap heels (that are toatally in fashion this season) were presented.

The setting was also glamour and romantic. The moonlight and a dark, musky atmosphere… It was like the models came out from ultra luxury club, still have a scent of Yves Saint Laurent Opium perfume.

That was a really amazing ending of New York fashion week. All the collections that I wrote about were so unique and creative- however I should say mostly everything was very classical (the only collections that I didn’t like was Michael Kors. Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta in collab with John Galianno that was too heavy and artificial as for the master of femine master and other designers like Ralph Lauren were also poor for me). And now, readers we are going to… Milan!