While for the last few seasons I didn’t really understand Sander Lak‘s phenomenon, his autumn-winter 2018 collection looks, well, really good to me. Since the start of his eponymous label, Sies Marjan, Lak indulged himself in pastels mostly. “Last season was light, a dreamy state. This is still a dream but an intense one. Not a nightmare, not a happy dream, not a wet dream.” Then, a lucid dream! This time around, it’s more about psychedelic ombré of iris purple, crimson red, deep blue and forest green. Colour has always been his soft spot, and the collection shows how good the designer is in mixing and crushing the most unlikely palettes. From gowns draped with taffeta and cute shearling jackets to slouchy suits and relaxed pajama shirts, it’s like a delightful, yet demanding, spectrum of must-haves. If Sander’s latest collection had its colour palette’s name, I would definitely call it the ‘sweet melancholia’.
Sander Lak of Sies Marjan has the best PR in town. It’s his second season, and his clothes are already sold by the most meaningful retailers. The hottest models and newcomers walk his shows. Out of nowhere, all the season’s fashionistas appeared on his spring-summer 2017 show. The editors are “stunned”. But is there a reason for all that fuss? I’m still in search for this ‘something’ that makes Sies Marjan a fashion phenomenon. The newest collection is good, but it’s like a deja vu of many other, on-the-radar labels. His colour compositions are called “brilliant”, but is there anything shocking about putting together the most Instagramable pastel shades? I’m quite bored with that. Lotta Volkova, the ‘Vetements best friend’, was tapped to style the show. The effect? Definitely not as jaw-dropping as everyone expected. The collection isn’t bad – scarf-like dresses in silk, platform boots, sequined gown in saucy-red – but it’s not remarkable.