Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha‘s guest residency at Jean Paul Gaultier’s haute couture atelier definitely stayed in the designer’s mind for her label’s autumn-winter 2024 collection. “It was an amazing experience,” she told the press. “There were probably two main things I took away from it, which was to have that focus and attention to detail, and to slow down with each look. I found it really interesting to discipline myself to do that – and I really wanted to bring that discipline back with me.” The workmanship and the attention to detail when it comes to the embellishment techniques is also something she found exciting to elaborate on, that’s why majority of this season’s embroideries is handmade. Presented at St Bartholomew’s Church in Farringdon, the collection was entitled “The Wake” and was partly inspired by Queen Victoria’s mourning dress. There was plenty of sheer dressing, touches of faux-fur detail, exquisite capes and coats, and opulent-looking, ecclesiastical-inspired accessories. Corsetry – another take-away from JPG’s couture studio – ran through the collection too. Its delicate structure embraced the abdomen within tie-detail nylon parkas and rompers. Its contours defined the darting in little sheer jackets worn north of pantaloons, some of the many womenswear looks in which Rocha worked to place the models’ breasts on twin metal-beaded podiums shaped perhaps after lips. “There’s the perversity of being adorned, and cupped, in these organza corsets: it’s really stimulating on,” said Rocha.

A couple of my favourite Simone Rocha pieces, some even discounted…

ED’s DISPATCH:

Embellished Merino Wool And Silk-blend Cardigan

Tiered Daisy Gold-tone Crystal Earrings

Mini Embellished Canvas Shoulder Bag

Sequin-embellished Tulle Mini Skirt

Satin-trimmed Cutout Embroidered Tulle Midi Dress

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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When Jean Paul Gaultier announced Simone Rocha as the guest designer for the spring-summer 2024 haute couture collection, it was clear that this unexpected match would result in an intriguing dialogue between Parisian artisanship and the Irish designer’s idiosyncratic take on femininity. The way Rocha interpreted the iconic JPG cone-bra into thorn-shaped protrusions signaled that she, unlike the previous guest creatives, will take a closer look at the couturier’s interest in the female body. This took her to the idea of playing with contrasts of couture: the tension between restraint and fragility. “His love of the breast and the hip and the female form – exploring that and harnessing it,” the designer said, explaining all the skirts and gowns buffeted with crinoline panniers and bustles. Corseting, another Gaultier landmark signature, seemed to be Rocha’s favorite element to play with. The designer treated the corset “as a security and this kind of second skin on the body.” The tattoo prints earned certain pagan mysticism in her hands, something I always love about her London shows. Meanwhile Breton stripes were represented by navy ribbons tied into bows and tacked loosely to illusion tulle, which also appeared on offbeat padded underpants. This was definitely a noteworthy fashion experiment to unpack.