Junior Suite. Sonia Rykiel SS15

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“My mother wore it a lot, so this felt like coming back to her closet a little bit,” said Julie de Libran. “There are so many codes, and there’s such a nice heritage, which I’m lucky to be able to take from and reinvent, to kind of close the archive, and just go by my selective memory.” I love this kind of fresh perspective on the brand. The designer of Sonia Rykiel simply must be French! The collection, presented in the SR Saint-Germain store was chic, sexy and pretty much basic. It was a good starting point, which hopefully will be developed in the upcoming seasons. And by the way, Gigi Hadid stole the show…

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Motor Babe. Sonia Rykiel Resort’15

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Change is in the air with Julie de Libran on the horizon as the new creative director at Sonia Rykiel. But for now, for the last collection, Geraldo da Conceicao did a pretty good job. This not-so-famous designer worked two years at this Parisian label and for his Resort 2015 he really rocked. As the line-up progressed, the silhouettes progressed softened significantly- and to winning effect. Updating house signatures, Geraldo put a modern twist on sparkly lurex seperates and gauzy shirtdresses. Also we had these beautiful V-neck tennis blouses and bourgeois brocade trousers. It’s worth to mention about the motorcycles… that did’t have anything really to do with the house legacy. They were just there (like the car themed styling and helmets). As Conceicao said, Madama Rykiel wasn’t a motor babe, but he imagined her riding a motorcycle, smoking a cigarette and having lots of fun! Yes, maybe Geraldo didn’t do anything amazing at Rykiel, but surely he made the house shine again. And hopefully Julie de Libran will continue his bright vision for this sensual, soft St. Germain-based brand!

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Beige. Sonia Rykiel AW14

Slide08Geraldo da Conceicao is the new designer of Sonia Rykiel already for three seasons including AW14… and I am missing real Sonia. I mean, Geraldo, (never heard of him, but he designed for few houses, making his name unknown) isn’t creating bad collections. But they are so shapeless. Kind of pretty, but without WOW like it was with Sonia. The AW14 was all about beige (so MaxMara) furs and Moi print. There was also an interesting colour splash at the end… although, I can’t say it’s shocking. Sonia Rykiel is a house with history, known for fun and Parisienne chic. And it can’t get “minimalistic” like everything. I don’t feel the spark.
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