The long May weekend was a blast – the Gallery Weekend in Berlin as usually felt fun and inspiring! For this occasion, Andreas Murkudis presented an event which was a “must” for artisanal art lovers. A carpet artwork by Alexandra Kehayoglou, commissioned by Dries Van Noten for his SS15 fashion show, was there for three days, at the old Kaufhaus Hertzog. Alexandra, an Argentine artist, follows in the family tradition of her Greek grandparents who migrated to Argentina carrying with them this textile tradition of carpet making. She developed a new art work for Dries, a 48 metre long carpet. The carpet has been woven entirely by hand for over four weeks and arrived just in time for the show.
The carpet evokes moss and grass and is made of pure Patagonian wool. The setting for SS15 collection was inspired by “A Midsummer Night’s Dream” serenity and romantic mood – “As soon as I discovered Alexandra’s work I immediately understood she was the only one I could collaborate with to execute the idea” said the designer. Believe me – seeing this masterpiece in reality was a truly beautiful and one-of-a-kind experience.
A bit Meadham Kirchhoff, a bit Schiaparelli – the Aussie brand, Romance Was Born took us to a wonder-land of diversity and nature. But in their signature, splendour style. That’s why their collection for summer is called “Coo-ee Couture”. Fearless design duo Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales didn’t disappoint. The eye-catchy collection is the result of Romance Was Born’s collaboration with artist, fashion designer and fellow free spirit Linda Jackson, who hand-painted each garment for the show. The intense jewel-toned dresses, mixed prints – including a striking beaded “Waratah “design – bold texture and glossy black plummage were accessorised by bright ceramic jewellery from the Australian label, Dinosaur Designs. If people in Australia are so easy-going with coo-coo fashion, then I love it!
Although being relatively new to the scene, Stella Jean, the Italian-Haitian designer who is one of Milan’s rising stars, has already found her own highly recognizable fashion recipe. Bold prints, optimistic attitude. That’s the label the Milanese women wear.
That bag. By Phoebe Philo for Celine.
Wow. I am moved. Valentino did a collection totally dedicated to Slavic culture and heritage. I definitely see so many Eastern Europpean accents – cubic prints inspired with Marc Chagall; Polish ethno dresses; romantic embroidery; warm and and charming textiles. Chagall, in particular, captivated Maria Grazia and Pierpaolo Piccioli. “He had an incredible life, very hard, but he maintained his optimistic vision,” Piccioli said. The painter’s Belarussian origins provided a leitmotif for the embellishments that are so central to the designers’ aesthetic – bold, but with a toned touch. If talking of romance, Valentino also made hair decorated with real flowers – that was a cherry on the top of the cake. So, a Slavic person, I approve this collection.
Am I the only one who thinks Karl Lagerfeld starts to be boring? This haute couture collection feels so… without life. The models were all dressed up as gardener wives, wearing ugly, anti-couture boots, widow straw hats and strange silhouettes, which are totally not eye-catchy. Definitely, if not the high retail of bags and cosmetics, the brand would feel some crisis. He claimed the show came to him in an electronic flash. “One morning in bed, I saw it in a second.” Or maybe he had a peek at the archives? SS10? Ring a bell? Same theme – cute dresses and a garden. But, then, the dresses were really cute.
Raf Simons did some crazy latex knee boots with rhinestone crystal inside. Having Allen Jones provoking furniture and art on his mood-board, Raf Simons fused Great Gatsby jumpsuits, 60’s prints and flattering 70’s silhouettes into one, beautiful collection. “My first Couture shows were exercises in understanding the history. The more you understand, the more you see what it can become.” Definitely, Raf is more into couture at Dior… thoses striped tulle skirts are mesmerising! So tribal. The jumpsuits look chic and stylish. And latex shoes which covered the legs made it all a bit eccentric, sexy, flirty.
Photos by Lea Colombo
I mean, Schiaparelli didn’t gave much time to Marco Zanini. After two seasons, he’s out. Well, if it’s couture, then don’t count on high retail, right? Duhh. If talking of the collection – I am a bit annoyed. The collection was designed by Schiaparelli studio, so it doesn’t have any fresh touch. It’s just about taking archive pieces from pre-war period and making them a bit more modern. But from the other side, the dresses were impressive with all those embroideries. Then, the beaded saris and white smoking brought the old good Parisian elite to life. But… I want something more. I want the house to respect it’s legacy, but at the same time represent something individual, fresh. Hmmm…
At the end of the show, every Instagram post said one thing: he’s back. Who? Of course John Galliano. The biggest couturier of 21st century, the story-teller of fashion, the provocateur – is back in great form. At Maison Martin Margiela.
His debutant show was presented in London – which is a major change because all previous Margiela collections were presented in Paris. But in reality, London was the main inspiration behind the Artisanal presentation. It’s youthful attitude, beautiful people and monarchy vs. punk conflict strongly influenced John throughout his career and while creating the collection.
The first look was suprisingly Margiela, but not that much at the same time – Galliano trailed toy cars across the collaged landscape of a tiny suede sheath. The sheath is the signature Martin Margiela piece, but the infantile elements are making us think of John’s spirit of fantasy. Within this excessively embroidered collection, we’ve met so many bold characters. The red queen coming straight from a fairy-tale. The tribal leader wearing a pagan veil. The rebellious dame looking like Vivienne Westwood. The chic dandy in black suite. Many of them were unknown to the house codes, but they feel close to it with their strong identity and need of experimenting.
With a blink-and-you-missed-it bow, John Galliano was seen wearing an iconic white coat from the Margiela atelier. Famous for showing off with his own outfit, this time he thought that’s not needed – the collection itself was so fearless, daring, heroic and stunning, that only the visual experience can express it!