First Paris Fashion Week show, and first impression. Anthony Vaccarello does logo. Even the wonder-boy of sex-appeal got touched by logo mania (read: commercialism). “Letters as a sharp graphism on the body. A wild, urban way to dress. I will be featuring prints for the first time in my collection.” Oh, I see. That’s why we’ve got the sweatshirts with A N T H O N Y V A C C A R R E L L O sign opened the show. Then we had also some very Versace-esque slim gowns (possibly an influence from Anthony’s SS15 Versus Versace debut in New York, earlier this month) with huge, gross A’s and V’s. But I still loved the leather pieces. And the skirts giving some leg to the models (like Mica Arganaraz or Binx Walton). This part felt much more Vaccarello-ish than the seriously Vaccarello-ed stuff.
SS15
Flower Market. Marni SS15
Marni celbrates its 20th Anniversary! From this occasion, they opened a Marni Flower Market, which brings the most Marni-ish thing on Earth- florals. For this special season, Marni showed a clean, but bold collection featuring delicate, white tunics, yellow leather suits, flower-power printed gowns, white kimonos with obi belts… it was a chaotic harmony, this time at Marni. Many pieces were statement, and the looks can be easily mixed with last season pieces… while Marni played contrasts, the Milan fashion week comes up to an end…
Prada’s Feet
As the SS15 shows go on, we’ve already got our first shoe favourites- this time, it goes to Prada, which brings leather patchworks on her massive clogs, high heeled stompers and granny-like pointy nosed pumps. All worn with a bold coloured socks, these shoes feel like the thing for the next season: 70’s. We are still discussing if they are comfortable… but surely they are real works of art.
German Summer. Jil Sander SS15
Rodolfo Paglialunga, the ex-Vionnet designer, is now the creative director of the minimalistic brand Jil Sander. This quiet designer is now on the place of Jil Sander, who left her house a year ago, and this is his first show… and it’s very German. By saying German, I mean it’s super clean, super minimal and super effortless. But it’s totally not that, what Raf Simons used to show year ago (when Sander AGAIN left her label). For summer, Rodolfo used a lot of burgundy, blue and black. We’ve got some classical sweaters and shirts… In other words, yawn. But still, these clothes are very Jil Sander.
Modern Elegance. Iceberg SS15
Alexis Martial is the perfect designer at Iceberg- for his third season at this pretty energetic Italian house, Alexis shows he’s worth of the new status. The Iceberg creative director was inspired by Southern California—the intense colors, its seedy strip malls, the people’s obsession with being physically fit. It made for his best collection yet for Iceberg: confident and vivid and, thanks to the sport influences, easy to wear but pretty elegant. With cacti and pitahaya fruits everywhere, Iceberg is fresh and cool for summer. The tailored pants, innovative fabrics and modernistic prints made the overall look slim and sleek. We’ve got to have an eye on Iceberg’s rebirth…

























