Sanctuary. The Row SS15

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The Row by the Olsen sisters is usually my favourite. But this time, it’s even more than favourite. It’s holy. Presented in a silent, brick loft with wooden floors in SoHO, the models started to emerge in a slow, calm way. Pouring through skylights, the morning sun glinted off the gold basket weave of a loosely tied coat, and shimmered on an organza top that looked as if it might’ve been dipped in tea or sepia-dyed. These were angels? Close. The clothes made from raw silk, crisp cotton, woven tabard finished with fringe… not many New York labels concentrate so much on detailing.

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The caftans, peplums, over-sized coats, the robe dresses… it all felt serene, noting the whole collection was kept in gold, creme. brown, black and white colour. Although the fabrics and clothes may sound splendorous, they weren’t even a bit seductive. They were elusive, and simply, minimally, beautiful. Plus, I would love to see these pieces worn on a summer escape- they are loose (but not slouchy), chic (but not elegant). And these wonderful sandals/flats make us drool… this simply is the strongest collection to date.

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Fantasy. Thom Browne SS15

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After you see Thom Browne’s collection, you totally forget about normcore, practical clothing and slouch dressing. Ignoring the trends and tendencies, Thom always does something magical in his shows. This time, we went to a magical forest party, where everything is full of bloom and colour. Out of the shark tooth tweed, colourful feathers are “growing” out. Flowers are simply evolving from the signature TB handbags, and different beautiful things happen on the long gowns… this magnificent performance/presentation is definitely a NYFW’s highlight. Thom Browne, you always stay the same Enfant Terrible of fashion. Hope you will never change!

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Duality. 3.1. Philip Lim SS15

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Philip Lim’s SS15 was radiant and energetic, making it a go-to for Summer city jungle. It was a mix of boudoir lace and sleek forms with the cool girl shorts and sandal, Even the bath-robe belt gave the collection a intimate feeling of mornings-in-bed. The delicate modeules which visually “moved” around the body of the models felt lazy and very relaxing… It would be just a dream to wake up in these clothes, and then go to the city (without changing your outfit)! This collection is all about duality, and it simply feels perfect for lazy weekendzz… zzzzzzz…

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Suede. Derek Lam SS15

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Suede. Suede. Suede. Derek Lam, you are a real 70’s man! This collection is a masterpiece. Beautiful shades of violet, brown and tourquoise were presented in leather jackets, suede skirts and tops. With a slightly hippie & masculine vibe, the collection lands high on the best NYFW presentations up to date. Still, the nostalgia factor ticked up a few notches this season—there’s something about patchwork suede with contrast topstitching that just takes you back. But if Lam’s references felt quite literal this time around, that didn’t make the clothes any less compelling. “It’s a continuation of my preoccupation with being an American designer,” Lam said backstage. “I love the American codes: the jean jacket, the shirtwaist.” This is what he said of the bell trousers and buttoned jackets. Lovely! And these photos of Ube via Cereal Magazine perfectly match the clothes…

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Sexy. Altuzarra SS15

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Well, sexy isn’t nothing new at Altuzarra’s runway. The unbottoned shirt with a pencil skirts is the signature of Joseph Altuzarra. But this summer, the designer went a little bit further, if talking of women’s appeal. We had some seriously beautiful dresses here, with a cute pink gingham. Then, we had some pencil skirt evetion. The next big thing was the leather- Joseph made it super seductive, placing it within the transparent dresses and blouses. We also so a lot of bras and sexy v-cuts. And at last, the Emilio Pucci-like hand-painted gowns, which felt very gypsy spirited. In my opinion, Altuzarra did a piece of good work! For the first time since three seasons I feel something new, something created truly by Joseph. It’s not like something. It’s feminine, sexy… it’s the real Altuzarra woman!

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