Men’s: Memories. Raf Simons SS15

RAF_0183.450x675

Raf Simons got really sentimental this season. In an industrial space, with guests standing instead of seating, the designer served a portion of unexplained things. And as he said, they are hard to analyse. But first of all, the backs of the coats and tops “Like mood boards you’d pin your favorite images to,” Raf said backstage. Friends, family, a fluffy kitty, a roller coaster, Mt. Fuji painted by Hokusai, a koi pond, a shark, a swimmer in peril, an astronaut…it seemed furiously random until Simons parsed the images. And these were all his memories and inspirations that he thought of while putting them live, on the models. Sharks- he loves Jaw movie and horrors. The astronaut was isolation. Roller coaster, the one he rode with his friends Olivier Rizzo and Willy Vanderperre decades ago. The Japanese influence was his thank-you to the first retailers who ever supported him. That was a truly psychological idea, too. In other words, Raf Simons made us all a bit shaky after the show. And the clothes were very him! The sneakers, the sophisticated suits, colourful tops and sharp tailored trousers. The AW14 collaboration with artist Sterling Ruby  was a sweet surrender that Simons said, “I could only go deep into myself to find another challenge.” He’s a supremely organized individual, but maybe Ruby left him with an appetite for chaos. “It’s interesting to let go,” he agreed.

Slide13

AA2X0118.450x675

Slide14

RAF_0904.450x675

Slide15

RAF_1054.450x675

Men’s: Boheme. Haider Ackermann SS15

_UMB2471.450x675

Pleasingly, Haider Ackermann didn’t dissapoint us with his recent men collection. The male boheme continues and for good! Knowing well Andalusian-gypsy style Haider gives us each season in his presentation, the SS15 is just the cherry on the top of a cake. A rich yet dusty, jewel-hued color palette of pieces layered together in a nonchalant way that must have taken hours to get just right. All the velvet varsity jackets, jacquard drop crotch pants, fitted vests over loose shirting, chinoiserie silk dressing gown coats, and long looping scarves closely echoed the personal style of the designer himself. Although, the easy inclusion of Saskia de Brauw and Liya Kebede into the mix of male models proved that the pieces had real cross over potential.

_UMB2536.450x675 _UMB2583.450x675

Slide10

_UMB2625.450x675

Slide11

_UMB2818.450x675

Men’s: Voyage. Christophe Lemaire SS15

YVL_0287.450x675

Voyage au bout de la nuit from Charlotte Gainsbourg’s song Voyage is the perfect song that matches the mood of Christophe Lemaire’s SS15 collection which was one of the best ones. Discreet millionaire, chic traveler, man who knows what’s luxury to him: these are the three ways I would describe this beautiful collection. The simple pajamas, beige tracksuits and safari suits with these rectangular pockets are my favourite. Christophe Lemaire simply got me on his eponymous and elusive way of being in fashion.

Slide05

Slide06

YVL_0312.450x675

Slide07

YVL_0380.450x675

Slide08

Men’s. Romantic. No.21 SS15

_ARC0051.450x675

Alessandro Dell’Acqua of No.21 brought his womenswear classics to men, making the boys for summer romantic and sweet. Lace was worked for slim pants and shirts, tops and short pants in lightweight gingham fabrics were cut in fluid silhouettes and suits came in sorbet colors. These contrasted with the contemporary, skater-inspired feel of printed T-shirts and Neoprene color-blocked sweatshirts embossed with the No. 21 logo. This is the modern Milanese guy.

Slide7

_ARC0134.450x675

Slide9

_ARC0223.450x675

Slide8

_ARC0234.450x675

Slide6

Men’s: Sailor. Gucci SS15

_ARC0345.450x675

This look above is the outfit that killed all the others for SS15. Clement Chabernaud wears a over-sized, striped pajama like shirt, paint marked boyfriend jeans and the classical, Gucci loafers. What to need more for summer? This gorgeous collection delivered by Frida Gianini for us yesterday is one of the best Gucci men ever had! Ticking all the nautical boxes and yet deftly managing to rise above costume party clichés, the tailoring-led collection featured boating jackets – contrast piping adorning collars and sleeves – gold anchor-stamped buttons and pristine white ankle grazers. Bravo!

_ARC0004.450x675

_ARC0065.450x675

_ARC0095.450x675

_ARC0197.450x675

_ARC0294.450x675

_ARC0369.450x675

_ARC0429.450x675