SS15

Azzedine Alaia is the only designer which shows his collection whenever he wants, always out of schedule. Far from paparazzi, Anna Dello Russo and Russian “fashionistas”, the master of XX-XXI century couture showed his summer collection, which looked like lace- but in reality, was all about fine knitting. We had some beautiful tailored shirts, exotic leather jackets, safari suits and airy caftans. All based on natural colours, the collection was simple, but very less is more. In reality this collection was chic-er and more couture than any haute couture show presented lately. And again, Alaia proves us one basic fact- his fashion is timeless. The dress which was bought 10 years ago from Alaia looks as good as the one bought one year ago. This is a real genius of fashion.

Summer is the time when we loose our self to the beach, sun, parties. And it also bring the new tendencies to fashion. The SS15 season is simply full of bright, chic ideas- with Seventies influences from Saturday night fever to hippy deluxe, a khaki nod to military style alongside nautical accents, experiments with transparency, patchworks of vintage prints and a mix & match approach to volume and fabric, for summer 2015 we’re set to see contrast take center stage. It’s a storm of ideas this season. So here’s Design & Culture by Ed’s TREND REPORT for summer.

Who doesn’t love boho? It’s so french, slightly gypsy and very comfortable. Mix delicate, fragile fabrics with over-sized trousers and turbans; invest in a huge, ethnic towel or cape for beach days. Stepping straight out of 1970s Marrakech, these long, light and flowing dresses will billow in the breeze this summer as you take on the elements in style. Inspired with over-sized style Talitha Getty, the boho chic feels totally all right for summer. Baja East, Dries Van Noten, Missoni, Chloe, Rodebjer.

Again, beach. Nautical stripes and captain jackets are the IT trend if talking of a summer escape. Or even a spa run-away. Take Acne Studios, where the models wore towels as mini dresses. Or Jacquemus which talked about beaching season in his beloved Marseille in France. And even dough beach-fashion might make you think sexy, the designers for SS15 are much more democratic and safe (unless you forget your bikini under Lanvin’s mesh top)! Anthony Vaccarello, Jacquemus, Marc Jacobs, Acne Studios, Lanvin.

Oriental vibe was on most of the designer’s mood-boards. Obi belts, kimono silhouttes, sharp colours were all here during the Milan and Paris fashion week! There is something sensual in these cut-outs. and the japonesque over-sized trousers look chic with sandals and quiet, comfortable pumps. It’s truly a zen state for summer. Alexander McQueen, Marni, Gucci, Celine.

Boyish trend is nothing really, new but the androgynity grows in power every season. Blazers, tailored trousers and le smokings from 70’s are stealing the spotlight. Also, the business woman in mini skirts chages her femme fatale shirt into a delicate, loose tank top. Saint Laurent, Maison Martin Margiela, Sonia Rykiel.

Lace is the most fragile fabric of all. It’s a bit ironic, but at the same time very naive and feminine. Nicolas Ghesquiere looked at this traditional materials from a much more modern perspective, while Chloe made the lace dresses a great tribute to the 70’s free spirit. Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Givenchy, Chloe, Louis Vuitton.

Who ever said that prints should be same? The SS15 is full-filled with everything- from florals like at Celine (YES.) to sharktooth a Mona Kowalski’s A Detacher. It was surely one of the most cheerful seasons for a long time… Roksanda, Thakoon, Celine, A Detacher, Marc by Marc Jacobs.

Loose yourself to dance! The 70’s glamour and Saturday Night Fever are back in opulent, sexy and chic way. Who knows it best? Tom Ford. Those transparent tops with flowers embroidered on nipples and the high waisted trousers are the perfect fit for a lux disco. Acne Studios, Saint Laurent, Isabel Marant, Tom Ford.

And now a contrast way of partying- being the Uptown girl, with a creme sweater, white blazer and comfortable, but elegant trousers. The New Yorker and Parisians know that trend best. It’s not about “drifting in gold”. It’s about being “less is more”. Celine, Victoria Beckham, Lanvin, Tibi.

Khaki is a movement of military trend although this season, it’s much more calm and elegant. V-neck sweaters, bomb dresses, artsy tracksuits and leather coats are the thing for active summers in forests. Khaki, in overall, is a cool colour. Creatures of Comfort, Sonia Rykiel, Marc Jacobs, Chanel, Hermes.

Fly high and free as a bird! Feathers and feather like materials made all of the gowns look fresh and beautiful. MSGM’s main motive was freedom, which was perfectly represented by small, paradise hummingbirds and parrots. Fendi flies, too, with their chic cocktail dresses. MSGM, Proenza Schouler, Fendi, Balenciaga.

I am in love with this trend, as it’s my moment’s obsession. Old, oriental tapestries and 70’s patterns were combined together, to create dreamy coats, dresses and pantalons. The proof for the new electic chic is the incredible fabrics at Dries Van Noten, the graphic foliage and florals at Maison Martin Margiela, and Prada’s eastern evocations. Maison Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Maison Martin Margiela, Prada.

Art always go in pair with fashion. That’s why the biggest artists of SS15, Juny Watanabe and Thomas Tait, brought as cubism in new, super bold dimension. This season saw an intriguing combination of influences from Roy Lichtenstein, one of the world’s leading pop-artists, Mondrian and Sonia Delaunay. With circle motifs, bright colors and bold, intersecting stripes the collections were a truly vibrant display. Loewe, Junya Watanabe, Dries Van Noten, Thomas Tait, Roksanda.

RED RED RED RED. Bloody red. Rose red. Love red. Temper red. Leather red. Vetements, Comme des Garcons, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu.

Black & white is a combination of modernity and elegance. It’s a classic. It’s ethernal. Jonathan Anderson of his name-sake brand mastered this contrast in a very lady-like way, while Anthony Vaccarello made the models look like sex bombs in those giving-leg gowns. Balmain, J.W. Anderson, Anthony Vaccarello.

What is American style? It’s all about being fit, loving rodeo, having a cacti and playing Barbie. My new favourite all-American labels? Mara Hoffman which fuses denim with crochet and The Elder Statesman, which is all about dyed prints and best, U.S. quality. It’s an American Dream! Mara Hoffman, The Elder Statesman, Iceberg, Alexander Wang, Moschino.