Italian Party. Missoni SS18

September 24, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Exactly 20 years ago, Angela Missoni took on the role of creative director at the brand her parents founded. So yes, that’s a reason to do a very festive collection. Pieces from Missoni spring-summer 2018 just beg for an invitation to a garden party, Italian-way of course. Soft and light knits in all shades of aquamarine and covered in signature zig-zag patterns; sheer capes and fleecy cardigans wrapped around the body; big hats ready for sunset-watching. Now, picture this: wearing Missoni, take a sip of red wine and induldge yourself in some sage-flavoured raviolli. Gossip with your Italian friends. I think I’m buying that.

Angela always makes Missoni look contemporary, while relying on unconventional, edgy styling. What’s more, she doesn’t fall too hard into the house’s archives, but goes her own path. Her 20 years of creative direction are success, as she managed to keep Missoni an Italian heritage brand that’s relevant. And what’s this season’s biggest change? The brand’s womenswear and menswear is shown together, a runway-model adapted by many other Italian brands latelt. The boys, wearing their thin knitted scarves and printed shirts are happy to join that party, too.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Gianni. Versace SS18

September 23, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Believe it or not, Gianni Versace was murdered 20 years ago, in the front of his Miami mansion. After his death, the fashion world drowned in sadness and grief – that was the end of an era of joy, sex and beauty. But, as its visible in 2017, Gianni’s soul is with us and his aesthetic is as relevant as ever – via Donetella Versace‘s medium. Yesterday was a fashion bomb in Milan, with Versace‘s absolute hits taken out of the archives. ‘Andy Warhol’, ‘My Friend Elton’, ‘Native Americans’, ‘Metal Mesh’, ‘Icons’, ‘Vogue’, ‘Animalia’ – all those wild and opulent prints, that used to explode in iconic ad campaigns by Richard Avedon, are revived. And alive. For good.

It’s hard to review a show like this, because it’s a breathing fashion legacy that has already been discussed from A to Z decades ago. Gianni’s signatures were placed on everything, from leggings to dresses, while some of the pieces that appeared to be too hard to replicate were taken straight out of the archives to the fashion show. But the models were the real stars of the runway: Instagirls (Hadid sisters) and mega-model off-springs (Kasia Gerber) sashayed along such models like Anja Rubik, Doutzen Krous and Mica Arganaraz in regular ready-to-wear; the runway queens, who launched their careers first walking for Gianni, closed the show with a fierce walk to the tune of George Michael’s ‘Freedom’. Naomi, Helena, Claudia, Cindy and Carla, the original muses, were all here (I just missed Linda…). Fashion loves spectacles. But that wasn’t a spectacle – that was an emotional ode to a genius, an icon, and her brother. Bravo, Donatella.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Meet the Heroines. Prada SS18

September 22, 2017September 22, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

That wasn’t a fictional story of one specific superwoman, but an entire cast of heroines, who walked in Miuccia Prada‘s spring-summer 2018 fashion show. For the last few seasons, Prada is keen on portraying different types of women she wholeheartedly admires and respects. And this season, it was a full-celebration of women, who not necessarily have the wallets that afford Prada price-tags. Not only was the styling accessible – hand-printed coats with safety-pins attached (a funky-punky touch), thrift-store glasses or jacquard dresses worn over masculine shirt – but also the venue had a lot to say to women of all walks of life. The Prada show space featured art by a selection of female graphic artists – Brigid Elva, Joëlle Jones, Stellar Leuna, Giuliana Maldini, Natsume Ono, Emma Rios, Trina Robbins and Fiona Staples – and with the archive of Tarpé Mills, creator of the first female action hero. The comic-style mural presented different aspects of womanhood just as precisely as Miuccia’s new season clothes. From utilitarian nylon vests to collage-themed lady-like dresses, it was all about choices, choices and choices. The soundtrack, which changed its tune nearly every minute, had such unlikely and unexpected musical obsessions like Lana Del Rey, The Cure or Suzanne Vega. Even that aspect perfectly synchronised with the idea of an ever-changing mood – something Mrs. Prada can definitely admit in her aesthetic sense.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Experimental Dandy. Hillier Bartley SS18

September 22, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sometimes, even the most costly production of a fashion show can’t be compared to one single look coming straight out of a silent look-book. In this case, I mean Hillier Bartley‘s beige tuxedo look. The jacket with shoulder-pads was slightly misshaped, giving it a cool, nonchalant manner; the pants were cropped and given a semi-Banana silhouette to keep it equally dandy. Styled with white socks and matching-colour pointy-toe shoes, that might be one of the best (and most striking in its actual simplicity) looks I’ve seen this season.

Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley have introduced their woman as a refined, but off-beat persona, few seasons ago – the story goes on, but this time in incredibly tempting shades of lilac, saucy red and dripping liquid gold. Zebra-patterned velvet frocks and handbags with lots of fringes were another clue of Bartley and Hillier’s love for a decadent kind of chic. The designers, known for rather loosely-fitted garments, seemed to be experimental about the forms of garments in their new collection – that’s why, they topped blazers and pants with fishnet to see how the silhouettes change and evolve. The effect? Bold.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Harmony. Attico SS18

September 21, 2017September 21, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini‘s brand, Attico, is like an ever-changing cabinet des curiosités that evolves with the designer’s ideas and sense of style. With a great commercial success under their belt (Attico tops the best-seller list everywhere, from Net-A-Porter to Matches), the women behind Milan’s beloved label keep it smartly small-production and very refined. Looking at Attico’s latest offering for spring-summer 2018, it’s clear what’s Gilda’s and what’s Giorgia’s. The first, master of layering and modern eclecticism, definitely put her stamp on the collection with her beloved use of sharp prints, bold colours and season’s new addition – the feathers. The second’s chic minimalist hand is felt in the feminine silhouettes of dresses and antique-looking embroideries. But what’s unique about Attico is the harmony kept between those two business partners / private-life friends. A truly well-curated selection of frocks and pajama suits await Attico’s devotees next season.