Girls Wanna Have Fun. Molly Goddard SS18

September 18, 2017September 18, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s a season of happiness, that’s a sure thing, and you may like it or not. Molly Goddard, who’s devoted to ‘happiness’ since her London fashion week debut, is fully in the game. Edie Campbell with a glass of champagne in one hand and an e-cigarette in the other was the first sign that it’s gonna be fun. The models were spiralling and dancing down the runway, not walking. Well, who wouldn’t want to loose themselves to dance in one of Goddard’s signature tulle dresses? To a surprise of many, though, tulle wasn’t the season’s hero for Molly. And it’s great to see that the designer can pull off a brilliant collection, while emerging into new fields. Smocking jackets; modern day dame ball-gowns; layers of shiny embroidery over frocks; heavy boots worn with the lightest pieces. Those ‘ladies’ have balls. They might go to a Prince Charming’s palace and leave for a pub with pals (maybe Chavs, even?). Erin O’Connor, who closed the show wearing a loosely-fitted skirt underneath a dress, was yet another sign: British fashion, today’s or yesterday’s, adores Goddard and her girl.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Humanly. JW Anderson SS18

September 18, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Big changes were foreshadowed at J.W. Anderson‘s spring-summer 2018 collection minutes before the show kicked-off. No claustrophobic corridor venue, but a circular runway with an art installation in the heart of it. The clothes’ aesthetic was far different, too. Criss-cross bungee cord and textured linens gave the collection a… leisure-y attitude. Wait, leisure at J.W. Anderson, where it’s always about the explosion of off-beat references, complexity and radiant colours? Yes, that’s happening. Kitchen implements on the catwalk and tablecloth-inspired homespun textiles with the brand’s logo – that was Jonathan Anderson‘s appreciation of ‘at home’ feeling, where everything is intimate and close to your comfort zone. Quite unexpected from a designer, who is known for twisting, collaging and reshaping ideas of fashion, always in a hurry. Just like in case of his last, very laid-back fashion show for men that we’ve seen at Pitti Uomo, Anderson takes a break and wants to clear his (and yours) busy mindset. “Media makes us hysterical. We have to go back to what we know to be humanly grounded,” the designer noted backstage of his show. If you’re still unsure or uneasy with realising Anderson’s new, ‘domesticated’ direction, the Hessian-topped espadrille boots that bottomed nearly every look will get you grounded for summers to come. Or the loose mint-green dress. To my own surprise, I’m really seeing Anderson’s clothes somewhere on a beach or in a well-kept garden of a, let’s say, art-curator (who simply needs to chill sometimes, too).

Collage by Edward Kanarecki

Glam is Not Dead! Marc Jacobs SS18

September 14, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Glam isn’t dead! And nothing proves that better than Marc Jacobs‘ enchanting spring-summer 2018 collection, the delicious finale of New York fashion week. It was, as Alexander Fury ecstatically wrote on Instagram, stupendous, stupefyingly brilliant, the Yves Saint Laurent haute couture at the gym moment, so up meets down. This can’t be stated in any other way. That was a fabulous explosion of colour, embroidery, prints. And, it was presented with unbelievable modesty – no venue decorations, no music. Just the clothes, the most diverse cast of models, and Jacobs’ affection for fashion. From voluminous coats to evening gowns, from wrapped turbans to fluffy sandals, from mega polka-dots to childish daisies – it’s a rhapsody. If the rumour has it that Marc Jacobs is thinking of leaving his company – and I can’t believe what would Marc Jacobs be without Marc – then he’s really showing a middle finger to corpo-stats of ‘what sells, what doesn’t’ with that collection.

P.s. Days before New York fashion week, I was wondering what will the main subject – fashion – be like among the local designers. Will the political climate have the same, dark effect as last season? With bold collections from such names as Tom Ford, Calvin Klein and Marc, of course, New York’s fashion scene bares it all and says ‘you won’t break us’. Fashion is a happy place, after all, and lets just lose ourselves to it.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Spontaneity. Maryam Nassir Zadeh SS18

September 14, 2017September 14, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Spontaneity has various meanings for Maryam Nassir Zadeh, and this season especially. The fashion show, with a running track as a venue, was in fact open for public and anyone could literally run the runway. The models (Zadeh’s friends-you-want-to-be-friends with like Ana Kras, Susan Cianciolo, Camilla Deterre and Mari Giudicelli) and their looks also had a sense of arty co-incidence. The signature ‘odd elegance’, as Maryam often defines, is about mixing and layering the most unexpected colour combinations and un-matchy pieces. A baby-pink dress in vichy print was transparent and neatly presented the label’s swimwear; buttoned corset was worn over another summer-y dress, but in cool mint-green; sweet polka-dots on a crop-top met with knee-length pants in beige. In case of the third outfit, I have never thought that a combo like this can be pulled off with such grace. Again, I’m obsessed with MNZ’s colour palette, because it’s so free of conventions and rules. Just like Solange, whose life performance – you see, not everything is SO spontaneous – gave audience the chills.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Lightness. The Row SS18

September 13, 2017September 13, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

“We wanted something softer, more romantic,” Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen said afterwards their spring-summer 2018 show-slash-breakfast presentation, which took place at the very chic Carlyle Hotel. “With everything so harsh, we wanted to take it down, show lightness.” Lightness is definitely a word that comes to your mind when you look through The Row‘s new offering. Floor-sweeping tunics in the fleeciest cashmere possible; couture-level outfits in a fabric made from, yes, paper. Ah, and those flowing coats! Even though the collection was said to be all about softness, there was something very Medieval about it, like the lengthy frocks (in lilac) or knitted hoods that resembled a knight’s chain-mail gear. Nobody expected that from The Row, and its pleasing to see that the Olsen twins venture into new territories at their brand.