The Look – Marc Jacobs AW20

Marc Jacobs‘ phenomenal autumn-winter 2020 collection is probably one of my favourite moments of the entire season. The runway featured a dance performance choreographed by Karole Armitage, New York’s „punk ballerina”, with the catwalk staged like a bistro. At some point it was hard to tell who’s the model and who’s the dancer (everybody was dressed in Jacobs), and that was the intention: beauty in chaos, told through powerful movement. Infinitely inspired by his heroes of the past and present, it is style, in which different people dress at the various stages, ages and times in their lives, that provokes Marc’s love for fashion and possibilities of what it can be. The designer especially had the fading image of disappearing New York in his mind – forever mythical and chic, with its „beauty, promise, sparkle and grit”. The simple, yet unbelievably elegant look Sara Grace Wallerstedt wore – black bra worn underneath a cable-knit cardigan, black pencil skirt, kitten heels with socks and a head-band – is the style refinement level that equals to Holly Golightly’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s wardrobe. When I rewatched this film a few days ago, I just couldn’t not think about Jacobs’ recent line-up.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki featuring Steven Meisel‘s photo for Vogue Italia‘s April 1999 issue.

The 2010s / Marc Jacobs AW19

Believe it or not – I can’t! – but we’re heading towards a new millenium. So, how do you choose the most important collections, designers and labels of the decade? The ones that made an actual impact in the 2010s? Well, it’s not an easy task. It all began in September 2009 with New York’s spring-summer 2010 shows and ended when the autumn-winter 2019 haute couture shows wrapped in Paris. Few thousands of shows, by the way. There will be 19 posts (that’s really the only possible minimum!) reminding about the best – and if not the best, then strongly influencing – moments in fashion.

Marc Jacobs AW19 – the King of New York.

Marc Jacobs closed New York fashion week last March with one of his best collections in years – or even, in his entire career. While the past few seasons were brilliant, they slightly worried with being too exaggerated, too show-y. The autumn-winter 2019 collection is just the perfect balance of Jacobs, and what his brand stands for. New York edginess combined with this cool, ‘off’ glamour. There was drama, of course: the yellow gown worn by Adut Akech looked insanely gorgeous, just as the dresses covered in feathers, as seen on Christy Turlington (by the way, it was her major runway return after 20 years and let me tell you – she was so, so beautiful). But there was something calm about this collection. Even sober. The venue was dark and absolutely minimal. Classical, live music played throughout the show. No killer platform boots or crazy hair – most of the models looked make-up free and wore beanies topped with a feather (that’s how Stephen Jones does ‘casual’). You might say that the collection seem to be inconsistent: how does Sara Grace Wallerstedt’s minimal pistachio dress works with Guinevere Van Seenus’ ruffled, retro ensemble? Well. They don’t have to. And Jacobs is fine with that. “They’re all very beautiful, but they’re all different. We have 40 girls and each one is slightly different… our vision of who each of these women are,” is what the designer said about both, the collection’s diverse model casting, and the aim behind the entire line-up. A ‘wardrobe’ would be a bad term to describe this, as this is something much more broader. It’s rather a set of personalities, in the fashion aspect, but not only. I’m still completely in love with this collection every time I see it.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki; Christy and Marc photographed by Steven Meisel.

#TBT: Dolce & Gabbana’s 2001

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Actually, Dolce & Gabbana used to great fashion before it became commercial, millenial-loving (duh) trash. With a backdrop of blossoming trees and lace curtains, Stefano and Domenico‘s glitzy glamour met power-dressing and… Madonna! I guess the fans of Material Girl went through an orgy after they saw those heavily beaded T-shirts with the musician’s most iconic album covers (as pictured above in Steven Meisel’s advertising campaign starring Gisele Budchen). But in 2001, Dolce & Gabbana brought some of the most chic suits to their runway, as well as Monica Belluci approved sheer eveningwear. Those were the times.

 

Madonna Day

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Although Madonna‘s birthday happens only once in a year, and it’s today, I wouldn’t mind celebrating her personality everyday. So if you’re one of those people who ‘hate’ Madonna for her being her, then you better leave this spot, as it’s a heavy appreciation post. Whether photographed by Steven Klein, Steven Meisel or Rankin; whether posing in boudoir, going dirty with Tony Ward or confessing her love on the dance floor; whether dressed in Italianesque black lace or an all-American gear – she’s Madonna. While exploring blogs like this one, fully dedicated to her persona, I’m awestruck with the way she has changed and keeps on changing. Just like in music, where she’s can be fully soaked with emotions and then become ecstatically happy. A style maverick and an extraordinary artist.

Happy Birthday!

Bye, Franca.

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Franca Sozzani, the editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia, passed away yesterday after a year of struggling with a sickness.

28 years ago, she became the editor-in-chief of quite forgotten and dusty Italian edition of Vogue, bringing pulsing energy, erotic seduction and provoking ideas to the again desired pages. Throughout her career, Sozzani invited cult photograohers and stylists, like Tim Walker, Steven Meisel, Joe McKenna or Paolo Roversi, to work on the editorials, and most of all, the non-chalant, yet refined image of Italian Vogue. She was often called the “gold-mine of creativity”, for a reason.

Let’s look back at small part of archival shots and editorials that were done under Sozzani.

Loewe Flores

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The place I would love to visit right now is the newly opened flower shop at Madrid’s Casa Loewe. The entire space is tremendous – filled with “myriad of natural Spanish materials, from the spectacular central staircase made of Campaspero stone to the Valencian clay floors below, all imbue the interior with provenance” as the brand says. But the spot with freshly cut flowers steals my heart especially. For this occasion, Jonathan Anderson, the creative director of the house, invited Ariel Dearie (a New York-based florist) and Steven Meisel to create a series of still-life flower portraits. The entire collection of these enchanting photos is now on display at the Jardin Botanico de Madrid.

NET-A-PORTER Holiday Banners

No Borders

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This colour palette. The drama. A bit of ‘The Danish Girl’ vibes.

Publication: Vogue Italia March 2016 
Model: Rianne van Rompaey, Lorena Maraschi, Ally Ertel, Anna Cleveland, Caitie Greene, Kit Butler, Niels Trispel, Katlin Aas, China Machado, Marc-André Turgeon, Erika Linder, Yasmin Wijnaldum 
Photographer: Steven Meisel, Benn Northover
 Fashion Editor: Olivier Rizzo

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Men’s: Douillet. Loewe SS15

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For few days before the presentation, the new Loewe ads were sent all around the Parisian billboards, presenting vintage Steven Meisel photographs curated by Jonathan Anderson. Jonathan, designer of J.W. Anderson and the new creative director of Spanish luxury fashion house, Loewe, debuted with a menswear SS15 look-book yesterday: full of warmth and youth, the clothes are modern, but keep up with the legacy of the house. The leather Amazona bags, the cozy sweaters with new M/M logos, the origami sharp cotton t-shirts and foulard like tops look fresh and innovative! It was also quite obvious how much of Anderson himself there was in the new Loewe. He played with Meccano blocks in his childhood, and the Meccano references in the new collection were, he said, representative of “a naive approach to rebuilding a brand” and the small leather goods. They led to a Pop-y, primary-colored touch. And, the naive aside, there was a jolt of Andersonian ambiguity in a piece as frankly feminine as the two striped silk scarves sewn together to create a top. I am really curious how will Anderson continue his journey at Loewe- because it starts really good!

Slide02Inspirations: Meccano blocks, Alex Katz beach paintings. The shoes, bag, keyholder and purse from new collection.

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