Seeing Irving Penn‘s works face-to-face, eye-to-eye, is an experience I will never forget. I find his photography so deep, so sharp, yet so refined. With a body of work stretching from portraits of Truman Capote, Marlene Dietrich, Pablo Picasso, and Alfred Hitchcock to abstract nudes, exquisite still lifes (my all-time favourites!), studies of flowers and cigarettes, portraits of children in Peruvian dress, New Guinean natives, all the way to the glamorous shots of Balenciaga and Dior dresses for Vogue, Penn is considered the most influential photographer of the twentieth century. C/O Berlin is commemorating the exceptional persona with a major retrospective on the centenary of his birth. Featuring around 240 works, the retrospective was organized by, yes, The Metropolitan Museum of Art in collaboration with The Irving Penn Foundation.
Irving Penn Centennial (until 01.07.2018) / C/O Berlin Hardenbergstraße 22-24
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen streamed their pre-fall 2016 look-book a week ago, with an over 2 month delay in comparison to other brands. However, it’s just in time before these clothes hit the stores, so on the 1st of May. Breaking news: The Row looks like a brand you will desire this autumn, even though I doubt you’re wondering about the next season knits right now. It’s a multi-layered, cashmere covered wonderland of softness and warmth, draped and reconstructed. Ribbed wool pants and dresses are as usual the The Row’s priority pieces, while the jackets with flowing silhouette look as if they were ripped out of a Dutch still-life portrait. There was a kind of elegant delicacy in this collection, too – a milk-white slip dress with a ruffle at the hem worn with a button-down shirt, updated with puffed sleeves. Statuesque, yet light. The slouchy suede shopper bag ranks up high, too, as one of the best accessories of the season.
Scrolling down the feed and filtering Instagram can be sometimes a good thing – and surely, when you are about to discover new, fresh designers with their unique vision! My latest find is the remarkably talented footwear designer, Lane Marinho. Lane is based in Sao Paulo, which currently experiences a kind of fashion renaissance. After working for several, big shoe companies in Brazil, Marinho decided to start experimenting with natural materials (like sea-shells and local natural stones) in order to make her ideas and old dream come true. She created her own label, which focuses on hand-made shoes and the heritage of artisan craftsmanship. As you can see on the photographs of Henrique Gendre, who is Lane’s collaborator since the beginning of her fashion adventure, the brand’s signature pieces are meticulously embroidered sandals. All of them are cut, sewed and hand-painted by the designer herself, which marks that all of the exemplars are one-of-a-kind and produced in very small quantity. Currently, the Brazilian designer has three collections under her belt, and all of them look equally impressive – and the shoes presented in bold, still life aesthetic (styled by another collaborator of the brand, Renata Corrêa) add warmth to this gloomy, rainy day.
The clothes are all about florals as always in case of Erdem, but what caught my attention was the elusive, grey backdrop! These beautifully embroidered dresses and the models look so good, sinking in all that dark colour. It strongly makes me think of Dutch masters who placed their still lives on dark backrounds. But lets discuss the clothes. As its a Resort collection, so the most commercial season of the year, the dresses and coats were very neat and safe. The flower prints were indeed “still”, rather than vibrant and refreshing. Also, we could notice those lace elememts which brought a modest-princess vibe to the entire look-book. Maybe I didn’t feel much of spark in this collection, but I cannot say it was a boring one – it was simply very wearable and elegant.