Straytukay

Quite naturally, Rick Owens’s spring–summer 2026 collection – presented, as usual, in the courtyard of the Palais de Tokyo, just steps away from the Palais Galliera where his retrospective is now on – gave you chills and a sense of otherworldly euphoria, as if straight out of his Temple. The lineup of models, their eyes obscured by black contacts that covered not only the irises and pupils but also the whites, embodied all the hallmarks of the designer’s alien-esque uniform, honed over three decades: muted, bleached tones; 1930s-inflected silhouettes evoking Old Hollywood; sharply exaggerated shoulders; sculptural draping; and towering platforms that stretched the silhouette to near-impossible proportions. The spiky, fringed leather capes were the work of young London-based designer Straytukay, while the print – a rarity at an Owens show – appeared on the long dresses in the finale and was a reproduction of the designer’s own star chart, originally drawn for him by his father. Whatever the astral prophecy was, the stars truly did align.

ED’s SELECTION:

Rick Owens Athena Arrowhead One-shoulder Draped Crushed-velvet Gown

Rick Owens Cantilever 8 Hydra Leather Sandals

Rick Owens Padded Shell Bomber Jacket

Rick Owens Fog Layered Suede Mini Skirt

Rick Owens Tied Taco Kiss Leather Ankle Boots

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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With the monumental retrospective that has just opened at the Palais Galliera (can’t wait to see it autumn!), the ritualistic, ecclesiastical fashion show that had models dive – or rather baptize themselves – in the pool of Palais De Tokyo’s courtyard, and the totemic structure that fronted the guests of the scene, Rick Owens can be easily compared to a godly entity (with a huge, huge following of loyal clients and fans from all over the world). His new collection sublimates all his divine powers. Nylon, denim, silk taffeta, leather, and flesh are the main materials at play: Owens sliced shorts, cropped and frayed jackets, and unzipped tranches of biker in order to present sections of skin beneath. A bare, sculpted chest is the ultimate Rick accessory. Fringed leather cloaks – made in collaboration with Straytukay – sat on their wearers like tattered bat wings. Dracula collared leather coats created a powerful clash with fluorescent, sequinned maxi-dresses two models wore near the finale. Two polar energies shape Owens’ work: affection for darkness and the need for vulnerability. This collection handsomely presented us an exquisite synergy.