Still so in love with Prada‘s autumn-winter 2019 collection… it was a dream. Click here for my review on it in case you’ve missed it!
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
The Look – Prada AW19
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Grown Up Glam Rock. Hillier Bartley AW19
What can you expect from Hillier Bartley for autumn-winter 2019? Stunning tailoring that’s Savile Row quality, but with a twist (think double-breasted houndstooth suit punked up with a zipper across the waist and matching pants in origami pleat). A smart clash of fashion references, from Kansai Yamamoto (look at the prints inspired with his work) to the bold New Romantics’ movement from 70s London. And brilliant eveningwear that spans from a gorgeous line-up of tailoring to a V-neck maxi-lenght gown in red (worn over a purple turtleneck – love this colour palette). Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier keep the vision of their brand consistent, yet at the same exciting. While Luella works closely with the clothes, Katie does the accessories. Look at the trapeze-shaped “cassette” bags – they look elegant, but sharp, grown-up, but glam. Just like the collection itself.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
L’Una & L’Altra in Rome
Why did I love my last trip to Rome so much? I accidentally, but very luckily, discovered Luna & L’Altra boutique, that was about to close in the couple of days – after 30 years of existence. The amazingly charismatic and inspiring owner, Biba Libera (photographed above), first introduced Japanese designers to Italy – think Yohji Yamamoto, Comme Des Garçons, Issey Miyake – and throughout the years gathered a brilliant collection of Maison Martin Margiela (even the super rare, artinasal pieces, like the gloves top or the tape bag). She even borrowed some of the pieces to Musee Galliera in Paris, which did the designer’s retrospective not a long time ago. Some of the items from her archives were available to buy. Meanwhile, she chatted with anyone who was as in awe with her and her store as me. It’s so sad to hear that places like this close due to the fashion industry’s pace… but as she said, she was ready for this step. And she’s here for a new adventure! Really hope to meet her soon.
All photos by Edward Kanarecki.
80s. Louis Vuitton AW19
Nicolas Ghesquière‘s autumn-winter 2019 collection for Louis Vuitton was an ode to self-expression, but also, a clear nod to the 1980s. You loved it or hated it. With a faux Centre Pompidou facade built inside of Louvre’s Cour Carrée (yes, one mega-museum of Paris in another), the whole scene was time transporting. Eccentric and eclectic, the jackets had big shoulders, skirts were over-the-knee and prints made you think of the Memphis Group. The leather skullcaps and colourful riding boots are here for a go-kart race. The most convincing looks were the ones near the finale: high-waisted pants, over-sized blazers and leather ties (they made think of Hedi Slimane’s last season debut at Celine, though…). Can’t say this collection is a favourite of mine, but it was a closing statement of Paris fashion week: the past is today’s fashion favourite sandpit to play in.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Not Demanding. Miu Miu AW19
Miuccia Prada‘s latest Miu Miu collection didn’t really touch my heart this season. It maybe had to reflect today’s youth, ready to face the world, but to me it felt like a show done ‘last minute’ (I know it wasn’t, though). Bit of camo print there, florals here. Baby doll dresses and trekking boots aren’t a surprise anymore. The long cape-coats? Didn’t buy them, either. The collection had to feel spontaneous in a way, maybe grunge-y even, but there’s a difference between ‘cool eclecticism’ and ‘messy’. But if you put the clothes out of the show’s styling, you can see few great pieces. We’re all exhausted sometimes, and Miuccia definitely felt like it’s good moment for a non-demanding, commercial collection. That was Miu Miu’s primal idea, after all.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Design & Culture by Ed 