In Paris. APC AW18

March 10, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

I always consider A.P.C. as intellectual fashion. No, it’s rather a lifestyle. Jean Touitou is the master of simple, yet great quality shirts, dresses, denim and jackets. The autumn-winter 2018 collection for women and men is something of student geek and… Paris. Sorry, I know, I’m the slave of this cliché. But the mini red dress with white-collar and sleeves, styled with those burgundy Mary-Janes in polished leather, is the quintessence of Paris to me. The same as the boys’ leather jumpsuit or one of those preppy floral shirts. I just can’t stop looking at this collection, even though it’s not ground-breaking or ‘disruptive’. It’s pure A.P.C., and we all want to be part of it.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Art. Thom Browne AW18

March 10, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Madonna’s ‘Vogue’ on the soundtrack. Painting models in the background. Sculpted skirts that looked like, yes, Venus of Willendorf. Thom Browne wanted to convey the idea of feminine artistry in his surreal, autumn-winter 2018 collection. Shortly, it’s “Vigée Le Brun painting a vision of what she wanted to be in the 21st century.” The 18th-century female artist, who was famous for being Marie Antoinette’s official portraitist, was an exception in the male dominated profession. No wonder why she’s the inspiration behind the collection. Browne never stops to surprise with his love for craftsmanship – the grey dress with ’embroidered’ nipples and ‘knitted’ pubic hair is a highlight, just like the delightful roses on capes and coats. A show to remember.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Strange Times. Haider Ackermann AW18

March 7, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

“We’re going through strange times; I wanted to have this fragility, but [also] something very uplifting,” is how Haider Ackermann summed up his autumn-winter 2018 moment. Underneath the Ackermann classics – like draped coats in animal spots or masterfully tailored jackets – a blast of electric colours emerged in form of tights and matching boots. But there was something unfamiliarly feminine about the collection – just see the pastel pink midi-dress in velvet or the mustard frock. Still, they feel just fine in here – it’s nothing new that the designer knows how to combine colours. The woman that Haider portrays used to wear a protective armour for the past few seasons. Now, she goes against the flow in her badass mullet and bold, polished neons.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Refined. Nina Ricci AW18

March 6, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

So what’s the deal with Guillaume Henry at Nina Ricci? After seasons of working at the heritage brand, the designer was reported to leave due to the maison‘s underfunding. Then, Nina Ricci’s company responded to the news by denying Henry’s departure, just hours after the recent fashion show. Oh, that crazy fashion…

But still, would you say Ricci needs a new designer? Throughout those three years, Guillaume has changed the label into an exciting and very refined place for women seeking the ‘Parisian allure’ (if we really need to use a cliché). Shortly, those are delightful, beautiful dresses, coats and accessories. Although the autumn-winter 2018 collection indeed felt as if it was witnessing a budget cut comparing to the last seasons, it was… well, good. Even very good – see the fur coats; the chic trackpants; voluminous shirts. I think that’s the main problem with old houses being suddenly revived by investors. The owners want big profit, they want the brand to be on everybody’s lips – but is giving the right amount of time for the designer even taken under consideration? Worth consideration.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

To Cherish and Wear. Loewe AW18

March 6, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

What does Loewe‘s autumn-winter 2018 collection stands for? The balance between a working and private life. This woman might equally wear her grey shirt-dress to the office, as well as to her weekend house (that has a lovely chimney spot, by the way). Actually, Jonathan Anderson is about to deliver all the needs Phoebe Philo will no longer be here for next autumn – jaw-dropping shearling coats; sophisticated, yet comfortable eveningwear; business-smart tailoring and shirting. The last looks had something of curated artiness that Anderson likes to inject into the house. See the multi-coloured thread inserts and fringing present in the maxi-skirts and gowns. To conclude, that’s fashion to cherish, and wear!