Handcraft Glamour. Proenza Schouler AW18

January 24, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Skipping New York fashion week for the Paris couture season works for the Proenza Schouler boys. That’s perceivable – their second collection in the French capital is a bomb. Reflecting on who their woman is, and what are the PS codes, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough combined globe-trotter craftsmanship with contemporary glamour for the label’s autumn-winter 2018. “We took it back to California, to handcraft, women’s lib,” Lazaro said backstage. “But we were thinking about this voyager, picking things up as she goes along. A voyager across borders.” Whether she’s wearing a crotchet, midi-dress in bold red, a handful of bracelets or one of these shearling coats, that woman certainly travels in style. The mood of the collection was comfortably relaxed – the bags are bigger this season, the knits feel clingier, while the multi-colour tie-dye looks give a laid-back, surfer-girl attitude. Fringing and velvet were here too, as well as big, eclectic necklaces that looked like treasures brought back home from remote destinations.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / New Glamour. Maison Margiela AW18

January 21, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

In his first menswear collection for Maison Margiela, John Galliano does what he tries (sometimes with success, sometimes not) at the womenswear line – present the new glamour. From deconstructed trench coats to elongated and exaggerated Savile Row jackets, that was a very bold outing of show-boys in their rubber swimming caps and mummified head-pieces. When speaking of Galliano, it’s always about the tiniest detail – he’s the haute couture craftsman, after all. Even if I’m not a total fan of this collecton, I like that idea of over-the-top glamour that John leads towards the men’s wardrobe – like the biker jacket corset. Also, I’m happy to see him venture again into menswear. Waiting to see more.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / UGG in the Hood. Y/Project AW18

January 18, 2018January 18, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

To be honest, it was quite predictable that at some point, with ‘ugly’ shoes having a moment, UGG will also hit the high fashion runways. But I never thought that in such way as presented on yesterday’s Y/Project runway. Glenn Martens earned his fanbase with elongating and distorting nearly each garment possible; so he did in his collaboration with the Australian footwear brand, known for the fluffiest and cosiest boots. The effect? Well, really, really perfect for snowy winters. But the label’s autumn-winter 2018 wasn’t only about big feet, but layering. Layering, layering, layering, whether we’re speaking of extra-large hoodies, tartan shirts or tailoring.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Identity. Prada AW18

January 16, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Identity is what Miuccia Prada considers and rethinks the most this season. Well, a house like Prada can boast with a huge number of ‘codes’. But one of the most distinct is the “Pocone” nylon (a modified material that was previously used in packaging industry), which was introduced by her back in 1984 as a line of bags. They were best-sellers in the 80s, and they seem to be hitting the stores by storm with similar success in 2018, noting the current customer tendency for everything that’s nostalgic. This specific nylon was the key material in the opening, all-black looks. From pillow-y coats to bucket hats, it’s a conversation between utility and contemporary dressing. Not only was “Pocone” a Prada reference in this Prada show. Prada’s now-closed sister line, Prada Sport, made a catchy comeback as zippers and labels in signature, bold red. Also, note the prints – feeling a déjà vu? Monkeys, lipsticks, flames, bananas, Hawaii florals, beaches… those are all prints from past collections, remixed and re-matched. Models wore ID tags featuring cutout Polaroid head shots clipped to their clothes or bags – that brought a exaggerated, corporate feeling that perfectly matched the very industrial venue, so the “Prada Warehouse” of its Fondazione on the outskirts of Milan. A bit elegant, a bit geek – that’s what men’s autumn-winter and women’s pre-fall 2018 really is about, with a dose of Miuccia’s sophistication.

Collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Uni Boy. MSGM AW18

January 15, 2018January 15, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

If boys in Milan dress to uni like this, then I think I’m moving in. “We did an extensive casting in all the Milanese universities and we picked up great new faces,” Massimo Giorgetti said backstage before his MSGM autumn-winter 2018 show. It was staged in Milan’s historic Università Statale – no surprise, noting the presence of the very academic models. The ideas behind the season’s prints and attitude was, in a way, a field investigation. “While researching for the collection we scouted for new logos, and we found the best inspiration on school desks or on bathroom walls, scrawled with a web of layered graffiti,” the designer noted. There were the off-duty hoodies styled with more dandy-ish, checked pants; vintage-y knits and college jackets, made in duvet. It’s for the book-loving and for the night-out goers at the same time. “Less street, more chic, almost ‘bravo ragazzo’ (good guy)” – in other words, Italian goodness. Rather than going for something too nerdy, Massimo emphasized the youthful optimism, ready for the future.